‘aight, this is not cool. Literally.

We are on a family vacation, 400 miles from home and after visiting a museum and getting back in the truck, the A/C blows warm.

Was cold until then which was all but the last 30 miles into town.

All pulleys look to be turning and non seized. Both belts are new within the year, look ok and don’t smell cooked.

I’m not 100% sure which is the compressor since we just got to the hotel and unloaded. Haven’t had time to research. Heater works great but when going back and forth, only gets warm on AC.

It’s Friday evening in a new place for a short time then a long trip back across the rangeland and nothingness of Utah and Idaho. I’ve got the IID Tool, duct tape, coolant, oil and a hot family to work with.

What should I look for and what can I fix with a trip to Walmart? (Probably nothing).

Ideally I’d like it to get cold again but will settle for a hot ride home if it doesn’t eat a belt so I need to figure out how to verify it won’t.

 

Try one of those AC recharge cans at Autozone/Walmart.

Real easy to use and worst case you'll get an idea on whether or not you're system is making pressure. If it works it'll get you home cool. Low pressure port you want to connect it to is right next to the dipstick and has an L on the cap.

If the compressor is dead it won't eat your belt. They fail "open", basically when they fail the pulley spins free

 

Thanks! It’s a relief to know it’s designed right to get you home. I’ve had more Fords throw belts due to seized compressors than I can count.

I’ll swing by Walmart and grab a can.

 

Got a can. It’s too hot to touch and unscrew the low side cap so I’ll try in the morning.

 

The small hex bolt in the center of the pulley on a good compressor is always rotating. Blackngold77 is correct in how they fail. There’s a shear plate that shears if the compressor seizes allowing the pulley to spin free. Look closely at that small hex bolt. If it’s not rotating, the plate has sheared, and you’ll need a new compressor. If it is rotating, the recharge can of 134a may get you cool again.

Good luck!

 

Will a can with the sealant and 134a be ok or further mess up the system?

 

I’m a big NO on sealant. If you have a leak, recharge with 134a only, then do a proper repair on the leak.

Some shops will not service your system with that crap in it. It messes up their high dollar machines.

 

Glad I asked and confirmed my thought. I’ll go looking for the right stuff.

Which live values, if any can I check the pressures with on the IID Tool?

 

You can probably view evap temp and line pressure, but I don’t think you need to. Just use the gauge on the recharge can to get you close enough and cooled off.

Is your center hex bolt rotating?

 

Yeah, avoid the "with leak seal" ones. Parts stores will have the regular stuff if Walmart doesn't. That leak seal stuff will clog up your system