There is no clutch, but we get what you mean. Compressor is toast. Bummer!

 

Sent you a message, I've got a new Denso compressor you can have. Ive got no use for it

 

How did you determine it had sheared? I'm in a similar situation. A/C blows warm, Compressor and drier (not the condenser) were replaced a couple of years ago, but pooped out in January and I'm just now getting around to it.

[1] I replaced the hi-pressure switch; did not replace the expansion valve (couldn't find the damned thing)
[2] I vacuumed the system and it holds vacuum @-18 PSI
[3] I weighed my R-134 cans to determine the weight of each [can + 12 oz. of gas] - it will require ~ 2-1/2 cans
[4] I began to recharge the system (according to the workshop manual my LR3 is a 4.4 litre with front and rear systems fitted: requires 900 grammes (31.83 ounces)
[5] Gap tool shows both compressor/motor current values at 0.750A and 242.0A, respectively which tells me the compressor is at least getting power
[6] The system draws refrigerant until it reaches about 121 PSI (confirmed with the Gap tool and the manifold gauges) or about 7 oz and then stops...

Does this sound like an expansion valve issue, the compressor or something else?

 

It sounds like the compressor may not be compressing.

If you zoom in on this pic, circled in red is the hex bolt that should spin with the motor. Look closely and you can see that is is sheared off.


If you see parts like these on your skid plate, your plate has sheared.

 

@P-Bod Thanks for the photo! The little red hex bolt in the center of the pulley DOES spin with the motor, so it does not appear to have sheared, but I'm still guessing that the compressor is bad. It only let me fill the system with 7oz of gas when it requires 31.83 ounces, so I'm thinking it let me fill the open space in the system up to the compressor and no further?

Is it worth it to replace the A/C compressor solenoid valve or just replace the whole compressor once again?

 

With as difficult as the compressor is to remove and replace, I would likely opt for the whole compressor.

It's really good news it's spinning though and there may be hope.

One thing you can do before condemning the compressor is to apply battery voltage directly to the solenoid valve on the compressor. I did this on mine by disconnecting the solenoid valve (the only electrical connection on the compressor), cobbling together some jumper wires to the solenoid/compressor side of the connector (can't remember if 1- or 2-wire connector). Then I started the motor, turned the A/C full on, and connected the jumper cables directly from the battery to the jumper wires on the solenoid valve. This effectively bypasses the electronic control of the compressor.

If the compressor is good, you'll immediately hear the motor respond to the A/C load and your air will begin to get cold. But...then you'll need to chase down your wiring problem.

In my case, after replacing a confirmed seized (and sheared) compressor, and it still wouldn't take a charge or get cold, I jumped the solenoid directly to battery as above to get cold air. After studying the wiring diagrams, following and testing all the way to the dashboard a/c control module, I ultimately confirmed a failed refrigeration solenoid circuit in the control module itself. A used one from Ebay got me cold again!

Another way to test the car side of the circuit is to wire an actual incandescent bulb to the solenoid connector. The light bulb should light bright when a/c is turned on. A multimeter for voltage or continuity won't work here. Mine showed both good voltage and continuity and would also light up an LED test probe giving me a false "good" circuit. The problem was the circuit wouldn't carry the amp load needed to power the solenoid.

It's a long-winded reply. Hope this helps!

 

@P-Bod Thank you very much for the detailed troubleshooting tips! I'm going to try it ASAP. Also, thanks for the tip for the light bulb, because I would have used a volt meter and could still miss the problem.

 

Yep, my 2006 compressor just locked up and did not shear. Wife said it squealed like hell and the air got hot. Parts on order.

 

Ha! I see the evidence lying there on the ground
Yeah, it's a good design when it works. Otherwise, you lose charging, power steering etc etc