I tackled this today, due to a leak I wanted to be sure I had enough fluid in the transmission.

1. Don't be an idiot like I was, don't accidentally unscrew the filler plug all the way until the engine is running. Just loosen it a couple turns. Undoing it completely while the engine is off will result in a large amount of fluid spilling out as the transmission takes up a fair bit when it is running. Plug is a T50 torx.

2. Wear protective clothing and gloves. I gave myself a nice second degree burn from the exhaust piping that runs right near the area. It's nearly impossible to get the drain plug in and out without touching the exhaust, and since the engine has to be running, it'll be quite hot.

3. It's fairly hard to tell when a "small thread" of oil is coming out of the plug since there is the heat shield frame right there. When I saw any oil coming out, I stopped filling. You will need a pump. A second set of hands is probably advisable.

All in all, about a quart and a quarter came out, and I put about 2 quarts back in so I suppose I was a little low.

Why they couldn't just put a stupid dipstick on these transmissions I'll never know. Absolutely stupid.

Edit: One more BIG thing that was a major headache to figure out:

4. Make sure you buy a new plug and sealing washer for the fill plug!! If you don't, your transmission will leak and you'll be low on fluid. I used https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-24117552349-1.

 

FWIW, my dealer tech told me that procedure is the trans temp needs to be at 30 degrees C (92F?) and then check/fill till the oil runs out. Didn't specify running or not so that is unknown.... $.02

Edit to add that alot of newer transmissions are coming "sealed for life" with no dipstick...

 

Yes, used an infrared thermometer on the pan, read about 28C when I started, so figured the fluid was probably a little warmer than the surface of the plastic pan.

Engine running (and AC on apparently) is an absolute must.

Side note, anyone know how to get transmission fluid out of clothes? Stinks something fierce.

 

Thanks for the info - sounds a little easier than the workshop procedure. Don't they also have even more requirements beyond just 92 degrees? What a PITA.

Now I just need some more people to crawl under there and do the same, then report back to this thread so I can decide if it's worth checking.

 

Yeah, I feel you on the exhaust issue. Here's my post on the subject:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...uestion-72231/

If you scroll down to the fifth post and read my "note", you'll see that I had the same issue and cursed Land Rover the same amount.

 

I too have singed my hands on the cats/pipes in that area.

Also the "sealed for life" thing on hard-working vehicles is such a joke. Maybe one day some enterprising fellow will put a dipstick on one of these ZF units.

 

This is a link to a number of files regarding our ZF 6HP26 tranny, actually the 6HP26X model.

You might want to note the file regarding replacing the Radio Noise Capacitor, part number LR020488, that is wired into the F30E circuit that power the tranny software. The capacitor is mounted on the right side of the transmission forward of the selector lever shaft.

When the capacitor fails, 10 amp F30E blows and while the engine runs, there is no go - no gears, so you are stopped as there is no power feeding to the transmission control module.

I regard replacement, (or disconnection), of the capacitor as another of those routine maintenance items.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - ZF 6HP26 Automatic Transmission in LR3

 

One big learning just popped up the hard way:

4. Make sure you buy a new plug and sealing washer for the fill plug!! If you don't, your transmission will leak and you'll be low on fluid. I used https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-24117552349-1