Well, I got my LR3 a few weeks back on the bump stops. Cracked hose, worn AMK compressor and a bad front block that had a solenoid issue meant replacing them all but still that was MUCH cheaper than coils.
Front block valve was $59 bucks new
Compressor new was $200 new on amazon, looks to be same as the OEM AMK.
Hose fix was free, used some barb unions around the garage I had.

IDK if these amazon parts will be as good, hell they might be better but they were certainly cheap. Since the OEM parts are junk on this thing, why bother with OEM? Fair question right?

It's good point though about peace of mind and about time saved once the swap is done, never going to have to deal with it again which is certainly nice. I most dread the shocks going bad, seems two of mine have been replaced judging from the softer rubber. There's no dirt cheap fix to those, even the amazon ones that don't have good reviews, look to be fairly expensive still.

 

So the parts lasted 14 years and they are junk? Yet those cheap $200 compressors are known last more than a year if you are lucky. Like anything maintenance is needed, if the compressor dryer is never served that alone can have a major impact on the compressor and valve blocks.

And coils can break, they certainly sag after a while. And they certainly can't adjust for load. If I had to go to coils I guess I would, but I prefer air. EAS is a huge plus in off-road travel for me.

 

Well, no they didn't last 14 years, they were replaced multiple times in that period and even then, I wouldn't be impressed. the compressor in my garage has been running since 1970, it's been rebuilt 0 times, my grandfather used it regularly my father used it quite a while and I've been using it about 10 years now casually. THAT I would say is a quality unit.

The cheap compressor looks to be a damn good knoc- off, or it's actually the same manufacturer as AMK being relabeled. The casting marks look identical under a 1 min inspection. I hope to god that's not the case because that's a real rip-off to the public when companies do that kind of thing but it wouldn't be the first time an OEM markup is 3x the real market value of an item. If it IS the case then indeed they're both junk but at least once is cheap right? The hitachi units were failing in the first year of use....again that's a joke and I'd call it junk, either poorly applied in usage or poorly designed, maybe low quality materials as well.

The dyer looked decent inside, not melted pellets, just a slight discoloration to a few of em. Certainly neglect is a real factor I'd agree, I can't speak on the first two units but records show them replaced. I did see a little fine dust in the front valve block but nothing extraordinary.

I too prefer the EAS system on this vehicle, quite a few benefits. Sagging is annoying but it comes with cheap quality springs which is what these vehicles get OEM as well as most all aftermarket that I personally have seen (granted that's very few). Eibach/Tein/KW and such don't sag, lifetime warranties help too.

-I am curious about the % of EAS systems that have lasted 15 years without anything failing, with good care given.
-My bushings are shot all around too but 15 years and rubber, not shocking that it's a bit worn by now, especially with over 200k on it. I'm hearing creaking during suspension travel. I'll have to hunt it down. I suspect folks going to coil conversions are doing the same.

One other benefit perhaps of coils is you get the option to do a lift that's mostly hassle free and not worry about EAS system acting finicky about it. I didn't really think about that as a perk.

 

Well thats unusual for an OEM compressor to fail so often. Most folks on the forums have replaced their original factory compressor with a new OEM unit once thus far. Very few might be on a third.

Desicant does not melt, so not sure what you mean by that. But if there is powder its WAY past its due date. This is why its best to replace the compressor then wait a couple weeks before servicing valve blocks as there is still residual particulates in the lines, etc. The smallest amount of dust prevents the o-rings in the valve blocks from sealing and they end up leaking into the gallery, which itself it not 100% air tight.

The AMK compressors are well labeled with the branding, but they don't sell generics. If the old one was not labeled, it was probably a generic to start with. The generics are meant to be knock-offs for a reason, at least in looks. Bearing, metal and even plastics quality seem to be sub par. An oilless compressor needs a proper build. Comparing these 12v compressors to a shop compressor is foolish at best, they are not the same at all.

 

I just rebuilt my almost 13yo hitachi and its like new again, no cheap Amazon special will last that long.

Good to hear you're back on the road but don't expect those parts to last.

 

Yeah, I didn't know it to melt either but the photos I'm seeing on this forum most certainly look to be melted pellets all stuck together into one big glob. The pellets I saw looked to be similar to a ceramic material, I didn't imagine them melting so I can't explain the photos I've seen on here. Makes sense on the valve blocks, I'll keep that in mind.

The one I removed was a legit AMK no doubt, with all the labels to go with it. The new one looked to be the same physical unit with just a small change to the push fittings etc. I usually can spot finite casting variations in fake products and there is some variance but not so much that I could call it out as a fake. I still have my AMK unit, I'm considering rebuilding it if it's worth the trouble, I wouldn't mind a backup unit ready to go when it's needed. True they aren't the same but I've seen oiless units in other fields like painting that last many more revolutions, true not 12v though but still. I don't know the typical operating total hours this thing would run in a vehicle but in my opinion, it should last the life of the vehicle, granted, if the system is leaking it'll run more than it should and that could have been the case.

 

When the desiccant cant dissipate the held moisture it clumps then starts to turn to powder which then travels down the pipes and fouls the valve blocks, i was lucky and changed mine just in time. It was mostly still in pellets but the outer filter was full of fine powder which is what happens when you get the first sign of issues being the raising slowly then normal height only message on the dash.

 

Sir, if i dont reflash does my ABS still active and operational?cant find the reflash box for sale.