I went to diagnose why my compressor runs longer than it should at startup. I don't get any drop when parked, so focused on the tank first. It did not take long to find the leak.



When I changed the desiccant in the compressor this summer it was wet, so I'm not surprised the tank rusted a pinhole. I have a yearly calendar reminder going now to change the desiccant.

I briefly considered welding it up (it holds 40psi as is), but a few internet horror stories of exploding tanks nudged me into ordering a new one. At any rate, check here if your compressor runs at startup with no loss of air at the springs.

 

Tough for me to check since it's covered up by my rock sliders....but seems to me it doesn't run overly long. If I drive it within a week it doesn't run, otherwise it might run for < a minute then shut off.

 

Yeah, that sounds reasonable. I should have qualified- if it runs long at startup and every time. I'm seeing several minutes of runtime.

You can also assess with the GAP tool or similar by loading the gallery pressure and reservoir valve status with the ignition on, then starting the engine. Right when the compressor starts and the reservoir valve opens, the gallery pressure will be the residual reservoir pressure plus whatever small amount the compressor just added. You can do this multiple times, recording your starting pressure (258psi if the tank is full), to benchmark your pressure loss over a given time period.

 

The tank wont exploded if welded but since its rusting from inside out there maybe more potential holes forming.

 

Bringing this post back from the dead. I have discovered that my '06 has a leaky tank. How tough of a job is this as a DIY for a guy who usually breaks things if he has a wrench in his hand?

 

Easy, just 2 bolts and an airline fitting.

 

Thanks!