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Old Apr 16, 2018 | 12:26 PM
  #1  
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Default Alternator concerns

My 2006 LR3 HSE won't crank, and it's been slow-cranking for the past week, indicating to me that the battery is dead or not charging. In addition, other electrically-dependent systems are acting funny. This battery is not that old (2-3 yrs), so I'm suspecting the alternator. The alternator seems to be making noises, much like a bad bearing sound, which has been going on for quite some time.
So...how much fun is it to replace a bad alternator? (I don't want to rebuild it!).

Are there any threads on this one??

Thanks in advance!
Dan
 
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Old Apr 16, 2018 | 07:39 PM
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Pretty easy. You will need a fan clutch tool to remove the fan.

AB has a vid. Just watched it and they don't remove the fan, to each his own.

 

Last edited by abran; Apr 16, 2018 at 07:43 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2018 | 12:54 PM
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OK, I did a little poking around on the LR3, charged it up, put a voltmeter on the battery while it was running, and realized it was putting out 14+ volts. I drove it down to the local parts joint, they 'tested' it, and it didn't hold a charge.
I had the battery replaced, and I'm back in business. Now I'm wondering: is it possible that the alternator could be functioning intermittently, and end up failing me at some time in the very near future??
 
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Old Apr 17, 2018 | 12:57 PM
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An addendum to the previous post:
The alternator was replaced in Jan 2014; the battery in Oct 2015...
 
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Old Apr 17, 2018 | 01:15 PM
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You can have the alternator tested.

Anything is possible. Use a multimeter or GAP tool to see for yourself what the car is outputting to the battery while running.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2018 | 01:58 PM
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As I mentioned above, the multimeter showed 14+. I also have a Scan Gauge II that I can connect to the OBD II port, to keep an eye on it while running around. I'll pursue that next...
 
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by djatkinson
As I mentioned above, the multimeter showed 14+. I also have a Scan Gauge II that I can connect to the OBD II port, to keep an eye on it while running around. I'll pursue that next...
Another alternative while running around.

 
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by djatkinson
OK, I did a little poking around on the LR3, charged it up, put a voltmeter on the battery while it was running, and realized it was putting out 14+ volts. I drove it down to the local parts joint, they 'tested' it, and it didn't hold a charge.
I had the battery replaced, and I'm back in business. Now I'm wondering: is it possible that the alternator could be functioning intermittently, and end up failing me at some time in the very near future??
Possible. The charging system is complicated (like everything else). What is the voltage now with the new battery? Mine is consistently 14+ volts, so I think that's fairly normal.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 02:49 PM
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Its very complicated. Normally I have 14+ volts, but I started seeing 13.8 ish in the summer. On a trip though Arizona in 110+ temps my voltage dropped to 12.1 volts.

So, I was sure my Alt was on the way out. Changed it in a parking lot.

turns out it was fine but the ECU was throttling the charging as my under hood temps were 150+(black LR3).
 
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Old Apr 18, 2018 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by KMET
Another alternative while running around.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hmurGNZqo4
I like that idea!
Hopefully, I can figure it out on my 2006 LR3 HSE...
 
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