So I've encountered my first air suspension problem. The vehicle will not lower to access height by using the switch. This did work when I purchased the vehicle back in Feb this year. All of the terrain response switches work, with the exception of lowering it. If I raise the vehicle to offroad height, then drive it up to speed, it will still lower automatically. There are no fault codes in the scanner, and no lights on the dash. I just replaced the terrain response switch console with a used one (working) and same thing. If I watch the scanner, it doesn't show that the switch activates when I try to lower it. Any other ideas? Just to be sure, I checked fuses and they are all fine? Could this be a relay maybe? Thanks.

 

Really stupid question coming: which switch are you using to lower it? You said "terrain response switches" and there is really only one; and it's not for the EAS. In fact it's not even a switch it's a rotary ****. So I just want to make sure we are talking about the correct switch.

Next, has there been any exposure to wetness in that area? That usually is the culprit as it kills the switch.

 

That was my thought initially that the switch got wet but he said the console was switched out to no effect.


Could be a relay (?)... or maybe the odometer, the clock and the radio station all have the same last 2 numbers displayed causing a tertiary Landivian Roverlicious cascade of the numerical flux generator.

 

Sorry, I'm just used to saying terrain response. I know that is just the **** for grass, etc. I should say using the ride height switch. It works going up, but not down. Me and a buddy swapped relays with a working one, and still nothing. The relay clicks/activates when going up, but nothing going down. I'm not sure if it's even supposed to "click" when going down. That area has never been wet. I will say the passenger side floor was wet once, blew out the sunroof drains and never had the problem again. Driver side floor was wet twice that I notice only recently (well after this problem started). Fixed that this past weekend and hasn't been wet since.

Since these LR's are so finicky, I'll go with EastCoast's reasoning of the numerical flux generator, just seems like an easier explanation, haha. Still need to fix it though.

 

I would check the wiring for downstream effects of having gotten wet...and maybe a new EAS height switch.

 

What side is the wiring under? I think I read driver's side? Also, are there any more relays for the suspension, or only 1 relay under the hood? Thanks.

 

so to revisit this, I just got around to messing with this more yesterday and tonight. The switch is not getting power for the lower switch, the raise switch gets power. I switched the actual pins around. With this, I hit the lower switch, and it raises, but the raise switch does nothing. I believe this rules out the actual switch as being bad. It would leave me with wiring or the control module being bad. The wire that feeds the lower switch is black with a white stripe. It has no power at the switch, but power down at the control module. I tapped into in and brought power right to the switch. Now although I know it gets power, nothing happens still. Any other thoughts? If I were to buy a new control module, or even used, would it have to be programmed to the vehicle by the dealer? or would it be plug and play?

 

So to give a conclusion to this, for anyone that may ever get the exact problem i had. The power going to the switch was it. I tried actually feed a power to the pin at the connector and that did the trick. Ran a new wire and spliced it in.

 

why didn't you fix the fault, instead of splicing in a new feed. its more likely a fused popped when the switch got coffee split on it????
you'll cause more problems down the road. no one likes to see random wires.

 

well a bit of a late response...but no fuse popped, nothing was ever spilled on it. i don't see how it will cause more problems down the road. i was getting power at one end, but not at the switch, so something was clearly wrong with that wire. what i did was merely eliminating a bad section of wire. what caused the bad section, no idea. i didn't bypass anything at all, no relays/fuses or computers, or splice a wire into it from a different source. i used the original source for power. thanks