Battery terminal causing faults ?
#11
12-24-2013, 10:30 AM
Pro Wrench
replacing the O rings
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...ram%5B1%5D.pdf
This refers to "Technical Service Bulletin SB034" which relates to what LR calls a "Vehicle Enhancement Program".
On page 6 and following are the Land Rover service bulletin instructions as to how to install delivery valve and exhaust valve repair kit JPO500010; also a list of previous compressor model numbers as related to the 3. The new delivery valve is easy to install, the exhaust, not so easy.
Note that this in not the more recent TSB that reduced the operating pressure of the compressor via a software fix and also recommended replacement of the air compressor 70 amp relay.
You may also want to look at the F35 album near the bottom for the relay material on the link page.
As to if you need to do this, I doubt it; I expect all your compressor problems related to the electrical connector. Most trouble light problems with the LR3 are somehow electrical even if they appear mechanical.
#12
12-24-2013, 10:36 AM
Oh ok makes perfect sense to replace . I heard I'm looking at around 150$ to replace dryer ?
Update the replaced terminal seems to have corrected the fault problem , this morning I went to get gas and the yellow suspension fault flashed on for a min or two then went out ???? Would a real fault show up and stay on permanently if it was a a true problem ?
I am in Vancouver right now and the moisture level is thru the roof
This in an Alberta truck and has never seen the water
Update the replaced terminal seems to have corrected the fault problem , this morning I went to get gas and the yellow suspension fault flashed on for a min or two then went out ???? Would a real fault show up and stay on permanently if it was a a true problem ?
I am in Vancouver right now and the moisture level is thru the roof
This in an Alberta truck and has never seen the water
#13
12-24-2013, 10:38 AM
#14
12-24-2013, 10:54 AM
I'm not sure if they ship to Canada, but I bought the drier at a site ran by a dealer in Kansas City. It was just over $100.
http://landrovermerriamparts.com
http://landrovermerriamparts.com
#15
12-24-2013, 12:06 PM
Pro Wrench
Hard Reset Instructions
First off, I would just ignore the odd warning light, particularly if it goes off near instantly. This is part of owning a 3, knowing what to ignore and what to be concerned about.
I presume you are visiting over Christmas in Vancouver and will be returning to Edmonton. I am in Fernie right now for Christmas - lots of snow I might add. Anyway, when I am travelling I try fiddle as little as possible on my 3 for fear of upsetting something. Most often these lights are just false story tellers or perhaps there is a story to tell, but the message the light is conveying can lead you in a wrong direction. I regard the 3 as a baby with a very limited vocabulary. About all it can do is cry and it is up to the parent to determine the problem. More correctly, there are only so many errors codes in the software, and none for faulty connectors, that sort of thing; hence a number of warning lights often means a minor problem but unrelated to any of the lights.
Below for your info, is what I call Hard Reset Instructions. This is a technique to turn off warning lights or at least some of them for some of the time. Generally it takes a number of instances prior to a light going on and then a longer time again for all the codes to self erase. This speeds up the process of getting rid of some of the stored codes.
Hard Reset Instructions
If your do not have a Faultmate or some sort of scanner, to erase codes and or turn off the MIL light, you might try what is called a hard reset. Note that the hard reset does not erase all codes, well very few actually, but does no damage either and will generally make warning lights disappear for at least a little while. This process is sort of the WD 40 of LR3 fixes.
In brief, to start the hard reset process, open the hood but close all doors and let your 3 go to sleep - no radio display etc and no key in the ignition.
(I find that it is often a good idea to have the drivers door window rolled down and the key in my pocket whenever fooling about the vehicle.)
Disconnect the ground battery terminal from the main starting battery.
Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the main starting battery.
(I assume that you only have one battery in your 3. If not, disconnect the others as well and leave them disconnected until after all is done.)
Connect the negative cable to the positive cable. (NOT the battery.) You will need a short length, (a foot or so), of light gauge, (14 to 18 gauge AWG, stranded copper), wire to do this as there is not enough slack in the positive and negative battery cables for them to touch each other.
Hold them together for about a minute or so, (some say 5 to 10 minutes); you are discharging memory modules within the engine computer and elsewhere.
Reattach positive terminal to the main starting battery.
Reattach negative terminal to the main starting battery.
Start engine and hopefully no warning lights.
Reset time on the radio - note that the station presets are still there as not everything is erased. Nothing much else needs resetting either.
You can now connect up the other batteries if you have a multiple battery setup.
This is a link to a thread in disco3 re hard reset.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic19547.html
I presume you are visiting over Christmas in Vancouver and will be returning to Edmonton. I am in Fernie right now for Christmas - lots of snow I might add. Anyway, when I am travelling I try fiddle as little as possible on my 3 for fear of upsetting something. Most often these lights are just false story tellers or perhaps there is a story to tell, but the message the light is conveying can lead you in a wrong direction. I regard the 3 as a baby with a very limited vocabulary. About all it can do is cry and it is up to the parent to determine the problem. More correctly, there are only so many errors codes in the software, and none for faulty connectors, that sort of thing; hence a number of warning lights often means a minor problem but unrelated to any of the lights.
Below for your info, is what I call Hard Reset Instructions. This is a technique to turn off warning lights or at least some of them for some of the time. Generally it takes a number of instances prior to a light going on and then a longer time again for all the codes to self erase. This speeds up the process of getting rid of some of the stored codes.
Hard Reset Instructions
If your do not have a Faultmate or some sort of scanner, to erase codes and or turn off the MIL light, you might try what is called a hard reset. Note that the hard reset does not erase all codes, well very few actually, but does no damage either and will generally make warning lights disappear for at least a little while. This process is sort of the WD 40 of LR3 fixes.
In brief, to start the hard reset process, open the hood but close all doors and let your 3 go to sleep - no radio display etc and no key in the ignition.
(I find that it is often a good idea to have the drivers door window rolled down and the key in my pocket whenever fooling about the vehicle.)
Disconnect the ground battery terminal from the main starting battery.
Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the main starting battery.
(I assume that you only have one battery in your 3. If not, disconnect the others as well and leave them disconnected until after all is done.)
Connect the negative cable to the positive cable. (NOT the battery.) You will need a short length, (a foot or so), of light gauge, (14 to 18 gauge AWG, stranded copper), wire to do this as there is not enough slack in the positive and negative battery cables for them to touch each other.
Hold them together for about a minute or so, (some say 5 to 10 minutes); you are discharging memory modules within the engine computer and elsewhere.
Reattach positive terminal to the main starting battery.
Reattach negative terminal to the main starting battery.
Start engine and hopefully no warning lights.
Reset time on the radio - note that the station presets are still there as not everything is erased. Nothing much else needs resetting either.
You can now connect up the other batteries if you have a multiple battery setup.
This is a link to a thread in disco3 re hard reset.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic19547.html
#16
12-24-2013, 03:16 PM
#17
12-24-2013, 05:35 PM
Pro Wrench
auto levelling perhaps
I would not say all the time, but on occasion, when stopped for a red light, I will note the front end rising a bit, (or falling). This is apparently the self levelling program either in action or perhaps behind the game and playing catchup; I guess it is normal.
I say "I guess", as it is possible that due to normal wear, one or more of the wheel height sensors is sending out spurious readings and the computers cannot make sense of the erratic values.
If so, the solution is a new sensor(s). In my case, I did change out both front and both rear sensors in pairs somewhere between 100 and 150 thousand km - more just as preventive maintenance rather than any apparent problem but you know there will be problems eventually.
If you have the 4x4 display on your NAV, call it up; then over the next few days and keep an eye on it. Watch for one or more of the wheels either appearing dead or appearing more active than the others. For the most part, the movement displayed is very little so it should be difficult to determine anything other than some extreme movement or none at all.
Also to test the theory, mount a curb or something high, one wheel at a time. You should see the mounted wheel move significantly on the display. If one does not or the display shows erratic behaviour, then perhaps you have found the troubled wheel sensor.
Also front wheel misalignment can show as a suspension problem. The 3 measures the steering wheel angle vs the anti-skid sensor readings. If the anti-skid says the vehicle is going straight ahead and the steering wheel angle sensor days the vehicle is turning, then the 3 can go into safe mode and the suspension drop.
I say "I guess", as it is possible that due to normal wear, one or more of the wheel height sensors is sending out spurious readings and the computers cannot make sense of the erratic values.
If so, the solution is a new sensor(s). In my case, I did change out both front and both rear sensors in pairs somewhere between 100 and 150 thousand km - more just as preventive maintenance rather than any apparent problem but you know there will be problems eventually.
If you have the 4x4 display on your NAV, call it up; then over the next few days and keep an eye on it. Watch for one or more of the wheels either appearing dead or appearing more active than the others. For the most part, the movement displayed is very little so it should be difficult to determine anything other than some extreme movement or none at all.
Also to test the theory, mount a curb or something high, one wheel at a time. You should see the mounted wheel move significantly on the display. If one does not or the display shows erratic behaviour, then perhaps you have found the troubled wheel sensor.
Also front wheel misalignment can show as a suspension problem. The 3 measures the steering wheel angle vs the anti-skid sensor readings. If the anti-skid says the vehicle is going straight ahead and the steering wheel angle sensor days the vehicle is turning, then the 3 can go into safe mode and the suspension drop.
#18
12-25-2013, 12:48 AM
Well I did the hard reset ....... And I wish I had good news ....
So the compressor popped up that red fault " and went out after about 5 minutes (is. That supposed to stay on permanently?) or when that "red fault" shows up , does it go out and disable the special functions when it's a genuine problem ?
I have both fingers crossed this is not my compressor going ,
Not a huge deal when I have time to order replacement parts , but due to the fact that I'm on vacation 1400 km away from the shop might make things a little difficult
Kinda in a bad spot advice anyone ??
So the compressor popped up that red fault " and went out after about 5 minutes (is. That supposed to stay on permanently?) or when that "red fault" shows up , does it go out and disable the special functions when it's a genuine problem ?
I have both fingers crossed this is not my compressor going ,
Not a huge deal when I have time to order replacement parts , but due to the fact that I'm on vacation 1400 km away from the shop might make things a little difficult
Kinda in a bad spot advice anyone ??
#19
12-25-2013, 10:12 AM
Pro Wrench
Remove F26E fuse to disable air system.
The link below details what I call my "on holiday, or in the outback and the air system is failing" keep going solution to get you back to civilization and or at least a LR dealer.
It is surprising the number of blokes in Western Australia and the Northern Territories who have had occasion to implement the procedure to get them back to Alice Springs and the only LR dealer within a thousand kilometres, well maybe even miles. In your case, once you depart Vancouver, the closest dealer will be a thousand km away in Calgary. For me here in Edmonton, north of town, the closest dealer is in Greenland or perhaps Iceland, and both require passage on an Ice Breaker to get there, hence one best have work around solutions.
At first I did not quite understand how the air system worked and thought that removing Fuse 35P was the key to freezing the suspension computer. I later determined that removing F26E in the engine compartment would kill the computer 24/7/365 and keep it dead. Removing F35P only put the computers to sleep while the engine is running; later when shut down, the zombies wake up and drop the 3 while parked. Removing F26E is pretty much equivalent to putting a stake to the heart and kills the suspension computer "good".
In practice, you have the engine idling, the hood open, the engine compartment fuse box cover off, and fuse 26 located and the compressor at rest, (that is air tank full). The assumption is that the 3 is at the desired level. In WA, this could be extended height to get back to civilization but for you will just be normal height. Then shut the engine off and remove the F26E fuse. You can then put the fuse box cover back on etc, start the engine and be on your way. None of the suspension lights will come on and if there are no leaks in the system, you will arrive back in Calgary still at normal height.
In practice, there are probably some small leaks and one corner will go down or both fronts or rears and at some point in your journey back, you will have to reinsert the F26E fuse, let the system pump itself back up and then pull the fuse again.
Also the ride will not be as good and handling not as it was either. De-powering the system means the front and rear cross valve orifices are closed and air is not automatically transferring across left to right or vice versa between the fronts and or rear wheels; hence bumps and cornering forces are not handled as well as they normally would be.
You will be effectively driving a coil spring 3 rather than an air spring 3 or the optional nitrogen system similar to what some Jeep and Dodge pickups now have.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 Air Suspension fuse 35P ECU Manual Shut Off Switch
It is surprising the number of blokes in Western Australia and the Northern Territories who have had occasion to implement the procedure to get them back to Alice Springs and the only LR dealer within a thousand kilometres, well maybe even miles. In your case, once you depart Vancouver, the closest dealer will be a thousand km away in Calgary. For me here in Edmonton, north of town, the closest dealer is in Greenland or perhaps Iceland, and both require passage on an Ice Breaker to get there, hence one best have work around solutions.
At first I did not quite understand how the air system worked and thought that removing Fuse 35P was the key to freezing the suspension computer. I later determined that removing F26E in the engine compartment would kill the computer 24/7/365 and keep it dead. Removing F35P only put the computers to sleep while the engine is running; later when shut down, the zombies wake up and drop the 3 while parked. Removing F26E is pretty much equivalent to putting a stake to the heart and kills the suspension computer "good".
In practice, you have the engine idling, the hood open, the engine compartment fuse box cover off, and fuse 26 located and the compressor at rest, (that is air tank full). The assumption is that the 3 is at the desired level. In WA, this could be extended height to get back to civilization but for you will just be normal height. Then shut the engine off and remove the F26E fuse. You can then put the fuse box cover back on etc, start the engine and be on your way. None of the suspension lights will come on and if there are no leaks in the system, you will arrive back in Calgary still at normal height.
In practice, there are probably some small leaks and one corner will go down or both fronts or rears and at some point in your journey back, you will have to reinsert the F26E fuse, let the system pump itself back up and then pull the fuse again.
Also the ride will not be as good and handling not as it was either. De-powering the system means the front and rear cross valve orifices are closed and air is not automatically transferring across left to right or vice versa between the fronts and or rear wheels; hence bumps and cornering forces are not handled as well as they normally would be.
You will be effectively driving a coil spring 3 rather than an air spring 3 or the optional nitrogen system similar to what some Jeep and Dodge pickups now have.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 Air Suspension fuse 35P ECU Manual Shut Off Switch
#20
12-25-2013, 02:53 PM
Your a life saver !
Well I couldn't sleep last night and decided to take a look at the compressor , removed it snapped a few photos of serial codes and a general once over and everything seems normal visually .. The cover plate was very dirty and muddy internally (I don't know if that's normal or perhaps for the excessive amount of road debris cause a compressor malfunction)
Whereabouts is this dryer located ?
Well I couldn't sleep last night and decided to take a look at the compressor , removed it snapped a few photos of serial codes and a general once over and everything seems normal visually .. The cover plate was very dirty and muddy internally (I don't know if that's normal or perhaps for the excessive amount of road debris cause a compressor malfunction)
Whereabouts is this dryer located ?