Well I certainly think the dual battery is the way to go , thanks
And I noticed the yellow fault still shows up and disappears shortly after
After about 30 k on the highway at speeds over 80km the red fault appears
Surly this is a height sensor
Damn lr3
I think I will take your advice on removing f26 before I head out on my 1000km + ride back to Edmonton
Would you have any other recommendations ? Thanks

 

I would suggest that you pull the fuse now and drive around Vancouver just to give you a feel of the 3 when the air suspension is locked so to speak.

Also I figure at least one corner will start to droop after a few hours. You will then have to reinsert the fuse and let the system pressure back up and re level.

This will give you an idea of how many hours you can drive #1 before stopping and the reinserting the fuse. It may be that your system is relatively leak free and it would take over night before you would notice anything.

For what it is worth, I have yet had to walk; my 3 has always got me there and back.

Incidentally there was such a tail wind back from Fernie thru the Crows Nest Pass yesterday that I averaged 110 kph and 12.3L/100 km re fuel. I fuelled up at Blairmore and still had near 1/4 tank left back here in Edmonton, about 550 km and 68 litres consumed.

 

Wow that's pretty good mileage
How was the roads and drive ?
Ok I will pull the fuse tomorrow
And it does trigger a yellow fault as soon as I do
Good plan tho , for my knowledge what would be the worst case scenario if they leaked low ? Is ther a possibility of a catastrophic failure ?
And as far as that comment about the "for what it's worth" kinda puts me at ease
First lr yet for me , but I am a fan for life
Thanks again I'll have to get ya a case of beers lol

 

S an update , the lr3 woke up today after a nice 2 day sleep and I have yet to see the fault code show up lol
The even weirder thing is that now my trunk release doesn't work now lol
Thoughts ?

 

The rear hatch not opening can be anything from software related to either the actuator or the switch.

Note that the rear hatch does not actually release by itself but requires that someone pull up upon it when the switch is operated. Pulling upwards is normal when one grasps the rear switch so you do not actually notice doing that. In theory, there is an emergency release function - you push and hold both the lock and unlock switches on the front dash with the engine running and have someone else pull upwards on the upper hatch. It will either open or not.

If it does open, the problem is probably the rear switch itself. When you remove it to install a new one, you will see the problem - corrosion due to moisture getting in and the new one is better sealed. Also if it is corrosion, just repeated squeezing can often get a few more opens out of it.

If the upper hatch does not release but you hear loud clicking, probably the actuator cable has finally broken. For that you have to replace the actuator, easy, but getting the upper door open first is the problem.

That assumes the lower half of the rear hatch still opens OK, but you have to get the upper open first to find out.

Regardless, don't fool around with it until you return as there can be a problem getting the upper hatch to close.

Re software, much like the lights, tomorrow, the hatch may be working again. Sometimes I think the locking logic program just gets mixed up and it takes a day or so for the memories to forget - that is certainly the situation with the warning lights - even if you solve a problem, if you do not have a code clearing device, then it takes times for the codes to self erase.

This is a link re actuator replacement.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Liftgate release mod

This is a link re switch replacement.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Switch Replacement Rear Upper Hatch Release

 

Very weird ?
Last night it rained quite a bit
The faults seems to have gone away by themselves lol
I'm guessing the huge amount of precipitation has something to do whit all my mishaps I've been having

 

There are three connectors in the left front wheel well behind the plastic wheel well liner and one can get wet, or more correctly, the wiring going into the connector and that can cause problems.

The humidity levels in Vancouver are in part why I suggest you do not fool around too much trying to solve problems - once you get back to dry mountain air, many may just disappear.

I doubt that there is a compressor problem - it will be wiring related or one of the wheel sensors - same with the hatch - somehow moisture related.

Are your carpets soaking wet down where your feet are, either passenger or driver side? If so, the solution is get back to Alberta.

 

Lol I agree
Can't wait to get home !
Tried the master rest you suggested and the hatch unlocked opened about a 1/4 "
And stayed locked

 

Yup floor mats are nice and wet lol oh joy
I cleared the sunroof drain plugs in the summer too

 

You need a second person pulling the hatch open when you hit the two buttons. If it opened at all, then the latch is working; it is just not like a normal trunk that pops open sort of - it tends to stay latched so it needs to be lifted as it unlatches.

By the sound of things, you just have confused software or a switch problem - my bet is the squeeze switch or the wet carpet and wet wires under.