Brake light, ABS Sensors, WHAT ELSE!
Like the title says, im planning on replacing some things before my "Thousands" (yes, with an "s") mile journey. Ive been getting some weird shifting lately (really high RPM's before switching gears) and (radiator fan will spin VERY FAST when im trying to get out of first gear) also (Hard down shifting) Hoping the Brake Light Switch and replacing the rear Brake Lights will help.
So my questions are: What else!
> what brake light switch do i need?
> what brake lights do i need?
> What and why do i need to replace ABS sensors?
> My Compressor seems to run long, and turns on EVERY TIME I start my LR3, What should I check or replace? (I have the AMK Compressor)
Thanks guys!
Your friendly neighborhood Rover
Eric
So my questions are: What else!
> what brake light switch do i need?
> what brake lights do i need?
> What and why do i need to replace ABS sensors?
> My Compressor seems to run long, and turns on EVERY TIME I start my LR3, What should I check or replace? (I have the AMK Compressor)
Thanks guys!
Your friendly neighborhood Rover
Eric
Curious, have you checked the rover for codes? For the record, I wouldn't trust my rover for thousandS with an S when it WAS behaving, nevermind when it was already showing signs of an excuse not to work.
Granted, I'm still jaded from my D2 which left me stranded more times within 6 months than any vehicle I have ever owned in my life.
But seriously - I'd have someone with an IID tool or something scan it and see if there's any codes that could be informative of an impending problem. I was amazed by how much was in mine for codes without a single light on the dash illuminated.
Dave
Granted, I'm still jaded from my D2 which left me stranded more times within 6 months than any vehicle I have ever owned in my life. But seriously - I'd have someone with an IID tool or something scan it and see if there's any codes that could be informative of an impending problem. I was amazed by how much was in mine for codes without a single light on the dash illuminated.
Dave
Your compressor will run every time you start the truck. Even the brand new trucks with brand new AMKs run every time. Its basically a system check and to get everything to standard operating pressure. As for the shifting. I would check your transmission fluid level. I do not think changing your brakelight switch and bulbs will help your transmission problems, but then again it is an LR3 and nothing surprises me anymore. Usually those items are more common with warning codes such as loss of special programs, suspension riding at access height, etc.
If you feel your suspension runs too often, spray some soapy liquid on the front and rear valve blocks, on top of the air bags and the crosslink valve. Start the truck, raise to Off Road height and check for bubbles.
To replace your ABS sensors, I wouldn't touch them unless you need them. If you do, you obviously need new sensors and a handful of ANR2224's as you'll likely break some removing the inner fender splash guard.
If you feel your suspension runs too often, spray some soapy liquid on the front and rear valve blocks, on top of the air bags and the crosslink valve. Start the truck, raise to Off Road height and check for bubbles.
To replace your ABS sensors, I wouldn't touch them unless you need them. If you do, you obviously need new sensors and a handful of ANR2224's as you'll likely break some removing the inner fender splash guard.
I don't think the fan running like that is abnormal, either. There is also a trick you can do to reset certain adaptations by holding down the gas pedal with the key in a particular position (I think II) for 10 seconds I believe, then shutting the vehicle down until it's quiet, dark (or 2 minutes). Sounds whacky but it works.
I took my LR3 on a journey of ~1800 miles last March, which included a 3 day ferry ride, -17F temps, ice, snow, slush, rain and Yukon-quality gasoline. It did just fine.
I took my LR3 on a journey of ~1800 miles last March, which included a 3 day ferry ride, -17F temps, ice, snow, slush, rain and Yukon-quality gasoline. It did just fine.
Is OEM what I want? Or should I go with aftermarket?
Wow, your right the price has shot up for no reason, I suspect it would be because they know everyone will need at least one. The last time I bought a 2-3 years ago, it was $11.96. I would go Motorcraft or OEM, not aftermarket. It's 33.00 here.


