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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 11:01 AM
  #11  
Oasisplayer311's Avatar
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Originally Posted by WNYErikDiscoII
I sell the OEM one for $17/delivered all day.

Im still curious as to why you're doing what you're doing when you have a rough shifting transmission issue.
On one of the other forums, A guy was getting weird shifting issues (Not shifting till 6k RPM, and hard down shifting into first, hesitation, ect.) After 3 trips to the Dealer, ended up being a back brake light. And just like you said, its a 3, nothing surprises me anymore.

Originally Posted by Ghaniba
Where are you finding the switch for under $15? Cheapest I'm finding is $39 on fleabay.

DaveM
I found some here: XKB500110 | Brake Light Switch Ds3 Ds4 L322 Rrs - Land Rover Part XKB500110 for $7

Thats what I need right?

Originally Posted by WNYErikDiscoII
As for the shifting. I would check your transmission fluid level.
I replaced my fluid less than 6 months ago at 65k
 
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 01:47 PM
  #12  
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That's the item-- I wonder what international shipping will cost.

There is no dipstick on the transmission.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 12:10 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by unseenone
I wonder what international shipping will cost

I was curious myself. To get it to NY, it was $9 for 10-12 day delivery time or $18 for 2-3 day.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 10:54 PM
  #14  
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OEM all the way. Aftermarket bulbs are not up to the Land Rover's over-thinking computers' standards.

I will refer you to this thread.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...m-fault-46701/
 
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 12:27 PM
  #15  
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Default Radio Noise supression capacitor

This link is to a file I have regarding a Radio Noise suppression capacitor that can short circuit/fail and blows 10 amp fuse F30 that powers the transmission computer and gives the appearance of transmission failure.

Also while the engine starts, there is no forward or reverse and the message centre tells you to give Land Rover plus 5K for a new tranny. The capacitor costs perhaps twenty five dollars so it is good preventative maintenance.

This is the radio noise suppression capacitor, part number LR020488 (previous NNW502820), that is mounted underneath and near the transmission. It is powered by fuse 10 amp F30E in the engine compartment. If F30E blows, (the fuse that also powers the transmission ECU), the problem is probably caused by the failed capacitor, not the ECU. A quick fix is just to disconnect the capacitor and replace the fuse as nothing bad seems to immediately result.

The above radio noise capacitor is not to be confused with LR004160, the ignition noise capacitor which is located under the black plastic engine cover on the right hand side above the air intake towards the rear of the engine. I will post on it as well.

The ignition capacitor is held on with a single 8mm bolt and a three wire electrical connector. Replacing the ignition capacitor as a routine maintenance prevention action at 100,000 miles, 160,000 km), has merit. It is a do it yourself kind of thing and easier to get at than the radio capacitor underneath.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 miscellaneous/Part number moulded into spoke of 18" ten spoke.

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...l_CIMG0884.jpg
 

Last edited by bbyer; Apr 26, 2015 at 12:39 PM.
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 12:36 PM
  #16  
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From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Default Front differential breather cap update LR019450

This is another cheap preventive mod to update the front differential breather cap to the D4/LR4 breather cap.


Apparently the current front cap tends to plug with time and hence the front differential seals start to leak as pressure is not relieved via the breather cap. This is a fix you can do standing up; your hands stay clean, and it will cost no more thirty dollars.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Breather Cap Front Differential installation
 
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 03:57 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by bbyer
This link is to a file I have regarding a Radio Noise suppression capacitor that can short circuit/fail and blows 10 amp fuse F30 that powers the transmission computer and gives the appearance of transmission failure.

Also while the engine starts, there is no forward or reverse and the message centre tells you to give Land Rover plus 5K for a new tranny. The capacitor costs perhaps twenty five dollars so it is good preventative maintenance.

This is the radio noise suppression capacitor, part number LR020488 (previous NNW502820), that is mounted underneath and near the transmission. It is powered by fuse 10 amp F30E in the engine compartment. If F30E blows, (the fuse that also powers the transmission ECU), the problem is probably caused by the failed capacitor, not the ECU. A quick fix is just to disconnect the capacitor and replace the fuse as nothing bad seems to immediately result.

The above radio noise capacitor is not to be confused with LR004160, the ignition noise capacitor which is located under the black plastic engine cover on the right hand side above the air intake towards the rear of the engine. I will post on it as well.

The ignition capacitor is held on with a single 8mm bolt and a three wire electrical connector. Replacing the ignition capacitor as a routine maintenance prevention action at 100,000 miles, 160,000 km), has merit. It is a do it yourself kind of thing and easier to get at than the radio capacitor underneath.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 miscellaneous/Part number moulded into spoke of 18" ten spoke.

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...l_CIMG0884.jpg
You rock BByer! I have read many of your posts here and on Disco3.uk which has helped me in my land rover fiascoes.

I took my 3 into a local Independent Land Rover mechanic, who told me right away "You have a K&N Air Filter, You DEFINITELY have a failed MAF Sensor." So im going to replace my K&N with an OEM Filter, and get a Genuine LR MAF Sensor.

I also replaced my rear brake bulbs which has made my shifting a LOT better, but my RPMs are still high. So waiting to be shipped are Brake Light Switch, Genuine MAF Sensor, and now a new radio noise capacitor!

Originally Posted by bbyer
This is another cheap preventive mod to update the front differential breather cap to the D4/LR4 breather cap.


Apparently the current front cap tends to plug with time and hence the front differential seals start to leak as pressure is not relieved via the breather cap. This is a fix you can do standing up; your hands stay clean, and it will cost no more thirty dollars.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Breather Cap Front Differential installation
I did this last year, scary thing, mine didnt even have a cap on it. Fluid still looked good though!


Thanks for commenting! I feel privileged!

Cheers!

Eric
 
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 07:35 AM
  #18  
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Default MAP, also perhaps.

Thanks for the kind words.

In addition to replacing the Manifold Air Flow (MAF), sensor there is a second item that is easy to replace and its operation is tied to the MAF. That is that Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor, part number 4628195, that you might consider replacing as well.

Located near the MAP and also on the top of the engine near the rear is that ignition capacitor, LR004160, that I mentioned above, again an easy item to replace in a preventive sense. It seems all capacitors and condensers fail at some time, and the Land Rover ones, more often than others for some reason.

Replacing the brake light switch is much like the capacitors; it breaks down over time and the solution is just to routinely replace it much like one does tyres.
 
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Old May 3, 2015 | 02:27 AM
  #19  
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From: Mackenzie BC Canada
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So what are we saying here? That an aftermarket air cleaner is capable of damaging sensors? To the point that the vehicle will have operational issues?

This could explain why my 3 (equipped with K&N) is stalling out within the first 1000 rpm after startup.

I explained how the engine stalls on startup to an LR tech, and he said that it sounded like a fuel pressure problem. I have scanned codes a few times to see if anything popped up, but the only things I could see related to engine performance were "misfire detected" - all cylinders, and (in the second to last scan) was something to the effect of "mass or volume air flow". Perhaps if the the computer receives false information from a faulty sensor, it believes that the airflow is low. It then adjusts fuel delivery as it thinks it is running rich. Cutting back on fuel when not necessary would certainly cause issues.

Anyone have any feedback on this?
 
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Old May 3, 2015 | 07:19 AM
  #20  
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From: Northeastern, CT
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Originally Posted by spiderman
So what are we saying here? That an aftermarket air cleaner is capable of damaging sensors? To the point that the vehicle will have operational issues?

This could explain why my 3 (equipped with K&N) is stalling out within the first 1000 rpm after startup.

I explained how the engine stalls on startup to an LR tech, and he said that it sounded like a fuel pressure problem. I have scanned codes a few times to see if anything popped up, but the only things I could see related to engine performance were "misfire detected" - all cylinders, and (in the second to last scan) was something to the effect of "mass or volume air flow". Perhaps if the the computer receives false information from a faulty sensor, it believes that the airflow is low. It then adjusts fuel delivery as it thinks it is running rich. Cutting back on fuel when not necessary would certainly cause issues.

Anyone have any feedback on this?
Before buying any parts, clean the throttle body. My truck has under 50k mi and began to stall and give air sensor/reduced engine performance messages. Spent 20 mins cleaning the throttle body and no more issues. Can of CRC throttle body cleaner cost me $8. Whole job took under 30 mins.

DaveM
 
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