Brake noise
#1
Brake noise
Hello, I have a 2008 LR3 and I recently replaced the front brakes. The front passenger side sounds like the pad is making contact with the disk with the disk while driving. The noise stops when turning, when the air suspension is raised and when accelerating, but when I let off the throttle it reappears. I have bleed the brakes and when I remove the wheel there does not seem to be contact against the disk. Is this noise due to a worn suspension part? Also I recently replaced the upper control arm.
#2
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DakotaTravler (06-06-2021)
#3
#4
The brake noise is beginning to bother me, I ended up taking the lr3 to a suspension specialist who inspected the suspension components and found nothing wrong. I also removed the dust cover, which did not fix the problem. I noticed the cv axle shaft inputting to the transmission did not look like it was fully seated as there was a bit of a gap between the dustcover and the transmission housing. I pounded away with a large hammer for some time, but the shaft did not seem to move. Am I potentially overlooking something? Why does it stop making noise when I put the suspension in off-road mode, then when It lowers it makes a skimming noise when it goes over bumps ect. I will try to post a picture of the cv shaft/housing gap
#5
The CV goes into the differential not the transmission itself. You do not want to every hammer a CV shaft, you can shock it which can cause failure - this is why impact tools are not recommended on axle nuts.
Raise both front wheels off the ground and rock the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock, check for play. Some play is normal at 9/3 from the tie rods. But 12/6 indicated a bad wheel bearing. And bad wheel bearings change noise when the wheel geometry changes, which includes turning or suspension height changes since the wheels angle changes. Sometimes when a bearing fails it can push the seals which have a very long, very small metal spring. If that spring pops outside the bearing seal it can scrap on stuff making noise. I had one fail in that exact way.
Raise both front wheels off the ground and rock the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock, check for play. Some play is normal at 9/3 from the tie rods. But 12/6 indicated a bad wheel bearing. And bad wheel bearings change noise when the wheel geometry changes, which includes turning or suspension height changes since the wheels angle changes. Sometimes when a bearing fails it can push the seals which have a very long, very small metal spring. If that spring pops outside the bearing seal it can scrap on stuff making noise. I had one fail in that exact way.
#7
How many miles have you completed since your brake job? I’ve had this happen with new pads and rotors (not Land Rover) and it goes away after a couple hundred miles. The pads, when new, are making contact with the rotor while moving and wear down. Once they’ve “broken in” the rubbing goes away.
Did you confirm the wheel bearing was actually bad before replacing? If the problem started after your brake job I would focus on brakes first.
Did you confirm the wheel bearing was actually bad before replacing? If the problem started after your brake job I would focus on brakes first.
#8
#9
My rubbing brake pad was only passenger side. The symptoms sounded very similar to you and considering you have new pads and rotors, I’d still lean toward that. If you have the ability you could swap out the pads with another brand and see if there is a change.
Did you confirm the wheel bearing that was replaced was faulty? Did you change it or a shop? Sometimes the wheel bearing is an obvious culprit, but people misinterpret which wheel it is coming from. Folks think it is the front when it is actually the rear. You could check all your bearings, but don’t replace them without confirming they are bad —that’s going to get expensive.
If the noise is less or more apparent when turning or suspension is raised, then you might consider moving parts that are changed by this geometry. CV joints being the most obvious, but failing joints generally make a clicking sound, not grinding.
Did you confirm the wheel bearing that was replaced was faulty? Did you change it or a shop? Sometimes the wheel bearing is an obvious culprit, but people misinterpret which wheel it is coming from. Folks think it is the front when it is actually the rear. You could check all your bearings, but don’t replace them without confirming they are bad —that’s going to get expensive.
If the noise is less or more apparent when turning or suspension is raised, then you might consider moving parts that are changed by this geometry. CV joints being the most obvious, but failing joints generally make a clicking sound, not grinding.
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