Ok so i brought in my LR3 and the dealer told me they needed to do a "brake job" because the car had gone 30,000k without one. (The LR3 is my mothers and she is very easy on the car). They quoted this brake job at $1200 and i asked how much labor was and they said $550. Completely outraged i went to the shop i take my audi to and he told me for new front pads and rotors and labor it would run me $650. Does the brake job by the dealer do new pads/rotors on ALL wheels? What about calipers? what are the differences, and what is the best thing to do.

Thanks,
Rick

 

Do the brakes yourself. At 30 k you shouldnt need to rotors, just new pads. The brake job on the LR# is just like any other car. Take off the wheel, remove the caliper, remove non piston side pad. Use c clamp to press back in caliper (might want to remove some brake fluid to keep it from overflowing the reservior) put in new pads. Drive.

Did it in 45 minutes on my dads LR3 and its been great for the last 20k. Easy and cheap as hell. Dont let the fact that its an expensive vehilce keep you from doing mundane mainenance like this, its easy. takes few tools and is as simple as changing brakes on an 88 ford escort,

 

Go to Atlantic British and buy one of their brakes sets while on sale and consider doing it your self for lots left. You will also find you probably don't even need to do the rotors, this time, as long as you don't have any brake warpage shutter.

 

My LR3 has 22K miles on it and the dealer says it needs new brakes all the way around. $900 total. I'm not convinced. What happens if I wait? What's the risk?

 

You can trash your rotors. Take 1/2 hour and pull one front and rear wheel, see what is left on the brake pads, if your pads are thinner then the brake backing pad, they are too thin.
Why not install the brakes your self for under $200?

 

In decending order of probability
- extra $15 or so to spend on brake sensors once the warning light comes up
- as already mentioned - ruined rotors. That's few hundred $$.
- not being able to stop in time when an a...hole in front of you decides not to run yellow light but rather to execute emergency braking - priceless...

 

Do the LR3s have special brakes or something? Like are they ceramic or some special material?

 

So, Mike: how do you tell the difference between rotor shudder, ball-joint shudder, and out-of-balance-tire shudder? :-)

 

Hey Baylink. Those three conditions can mimic each other at times and make it kinda hard to diagnose. I'll try to explain as I understand them.

Rotor shudder is most pronounced when you apply your brakes. The shudder will vary with speed.

Ball-Joint-Shudder is most pronounced after you hit a bump or pothole, it causes the shudder.

Out-of-balance shudder is felt on the highway at speeds. Say between 55-60 you get a slight shuddering of the steering wheel, that is probably a tire balance issue.

Let's see if Mike agrees with me....
BJ