It isn't broken, that is a block off. The green wire you are reffering to is actually going to a pin on the bottom of the connector.






Yes on the C2559/C2560, no on the broken wire.

 

Keep It Simple Stupid! I mean really...they teach us to try and open the door normally before prying/breaking it.


The long story short we went through all the wiring and all of the connections...everything is legit, no shorts, no incorrect grounding.


Finally someone was genius enough to say "hey, did you by chance install these air lines backwards on the center valve?"
I immediately swapped the lines and
problem has been solved


Now I just need to find the leak in the "middle"


Thanks to everyone for the guidance and assistance, I truly appreciate it! Hopefully this will help someone down the line when they do something silly like this.

 

I was looking at the air line drawing and trying to imagine how the system would operate with the air line from the air tank and the air line from the compressor reversed. I presume those were the two lines you were referring to above.

I am not certain just how item 11, the Air Tank Control Valve operates but I assume it shuts off the air tank when the tank is full and opens it when either it or the air springs need air. With the lines reversed, the air tank is kind of always open and the air compressor at times blocked off probably when it should not be, or provided an exit path for leaking block valve air from the rear air spring out to the atmosphere.

In otherwords, it may be that there are no more problems other than the required AMK software update.

It is really a question of whether that left rear air spring dropped significantly and quickly prior to the installation of the AMK. I presume it was during the install of the AMK when the centre block valve air lines got reversed; also that is when the warning lights showed themselves.

This is quite an interesting development - something new to me - it is an unusual variation of the usual problems.

 

You are correct, the lines on the center block were reversed.
The rear valve block had to be leaking anyway, even if the whole thing was caused by the reversed lines.

 

I cannot thank you, AdrenalinPlease and bbyer enough. I have been trying to diagnose a problem since Christmas Day. The front was lowering with fuses pulled so I changed the front valve block with some success; I couldn’t get it to raise though. After testing pressure in lines from the middle valve block I had determined the problem was that the compressor shot craps too. I took it apart and it looked like the “new” compressor the previous owner paid some random shop to put in was rebuilt with rtv gasket in spots. I also found metal shavings in the exhaust valve so decided to order a new one from Lucky8. I’ll rebuild the old one for a spare. It comes in today, I get it all buttoned up, the compressor is building pressure and all seems great. I get in and it won’t raise. Throwing codes:
C1A13-64 (2E) Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
( on 23-01-2018 19:51:45 at 239748 mi )
C1131-92 (AF) Air supply - Component failure - performance or incorrect operation
( on 23-01-2018 19:53:08 at 239748 mi )

I had given up, defeated and depressed getting ready to call a shop near by in the morning to help diagnose. Too late to call, I start reading this thread looking for anything that might help. Dreading air leaks, and faulty wiring working my way through the thread I finally get to the end to see that your air lines had been reversed on your reservoir valve block and instantly an image pops in my head of fighting those two exact lines the other night. 11:30 at night, in my pajamas on a 21 degree winter night I crawl under the rig to find the same two damn lines crossed! Quick swap with my regular wrench as the open end ratcheting set I bought doesn’t have a 12mm! Again, thank you and everyone that posts in the forums. All is right with the world and I can sleep sound tonight knowing that I don’t have to drive something other than my beloved (almost posted it on Craigslist earlier tonight) LR3 tomorrow.

 

All's well that ends well... glad you got it sorted out.

 

C1A13-64 back at it again. While I did have the lines reversed and the system has been able to pressurize and work as normal I am still getting this code. The odd thing is that it primarily rears its ugly head when it is cold. On a 60 degree day it never pops up and operates as it should. When it is a bit colder 40-50 it'll throw this code and I can clear it and it goes back to operating normal again. When it is below freezing it'll throw the code immediately after clearing faults. I have also noticed my front right lowering over night after pulling the fuse so I'll need to track that down as well. Any input before I dive into it later this week would be greatly appreciated.

 

Forgot to mention everything I've done thus far:

• New front valve block
• New compressor
• Exhaust line to silencer tested with compressed air, not clogged
• resevoir valve block taken apart to check the valve and all o-rings in good condition
• resevoir valve block lines were crossed when i put it back together but are now connected correctly.
• Pressure tested gallery via line from compressor to resevoir valve block, all good
• pressure tested resevoir tank via line from resevoir valve block, no leaks
• Pressure sensor seams to work just fine as I have logged its input via IIDTool and there are no spikes or drop outs and pressure is accurate as per spec
• Re-flashed EAS ECU via IIDTool
• Have also gotten fault code u0132-8

As I mentioned earlier there is a leak in the front right somewhere after the valve block, whether that is a connection, line or air bag is yet to be determined but it doesn't seem like that should throw this code. Thanks again for any help.

 

When looking at the error code below, I was wondering what or where is the gallery?

I presume "gallery" refers to any location that "air is at pressure" which means air in the air compressor cylinder when the compressor is at rest, and also in the air lines between the what I call the centre block valve, (Reservoir Block Valve), located near the compressor and the #23, the Pressure Relief and Exhaust Valve in the doc attached.

The next question is of course, is the code lying? Is C1A13-64 perhaps a false code as there is no code for the real problem? In other words, the code is a best guess, but not a valid code. For the moment we will assume it is a valid code - otherwise, as before, abandon all hope.

About all we know for certain is that somehow the problem is temperature related. While I do some thinking, one might just get underneath and unplug and re-plug any electrical connectors near the compressor. If the code is correct, it suggests that #23, the exhaust valve is not routinely opening to depressurize the system. Either cooler temperatures cause the valve to malfunction or there is a problem receiving signal.

Also fool with the pressure sensor wiring plug located on the Reservoir Valve Block. This sensor, (5 volt system), talks to the air suspension computer and does I think more than just tell the compressor when the air tank is low.

I presume that you can routinely drop your 3 to access height? It is something you might try next time the fault light goes on.

Incidentally, how do you clear the faults? Is it with just an engine restart, or with some sort of code tool?

At least you are not walking - there is hope.

C1A13-64 (2E) Pressure does not decrease when venting gallery - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure

 

That's my understanding of the gallery as well. I hope she's not lying to me.. With it being a brand new compressor, I think your right and could be wiring/plugs. I did change the relay when I changed the compressor as well. I'll try to get under it tonight.