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Can't handle it anymore, time for new starter. Tips?!

Old Apr 5, 2016 | 08:26 AM
  #1  
EstorilM's Avatar
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Default Can't handle it anymore, time for new starter. Tips?!

I've run through a few different threads plus the ridiculous OE procedure and I think I know the best way to do it fairly quickly/easily, but I wanted to see if I could hear from a few of you who have done this already - I know it never actually goes according to plan!

Two winters now I've had the *rotate key.. CLICK/THUNK.. no start* repeat 10x... 2 turns then dies. repeat again, 3 turns.. half dies... turns again.. motor starts.

Or some variation.

I know it's the starter solenoid contacts - it's got a new battery, and only happens when it's cold out - although lately it started up again even though it's been warmer, and I was almost really late for an important event this weekend when it wouldn't start for over 10 minutes. Was a cross-country sports photo shoot so my gf and I were driving around fields all day. Once it's warm it's usually perfect. After a few hours (with this wind we had this weekend!) it was already giving me issues. Every morning since now.

The first season it happened, the starter was 100% once it warmed up again - perfect for 8 months or so, hence my initial reluctance to replace it. Don't have a choice now though!

I can get one from napa by this afternoon - their version looks to be the OE Remy style, has the same double 90 degree dual drains. Carquest shows a denso design, the drains are straight and it overall looks a little cheaper. I've talked to the napa power premium rep at their training events and they say they're actually OE replicas made at the same factory in most cases, especially the european models. If they're rated for water submersion OE, they seal and drain and use the correct bearings for that in their stuff too. Might explain the drain style versus the other cheaper reman units out there.

I'll let you know how it performs.

Oh and yes I've got a brand new MPT H9 battery in there.

Again, any tips would be appreciated!

I suppose now would be the perfect time to tighten those exhaust manifold bolts AND maybe get a peek inside the flywheel area with the camera to see if I can get any clues about my harmonic vibration.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 07:40 PM
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Ugh....you just reminded me I need to look at a manifold leak on my own truck. Not looking forward to that one. Off to order a gasket!
 
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 07:28 AM
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Those bolts are crazy. I tightened 3 on the rear and 2 on the front but the rest are blocked by the shock assy. and the motor mount area - zero room. I got most of the bolts to crack, the most may have been 1/8th turn on one towards the front. Who knows - sounds about the same to me.

PS starter wasn't too bad - I'll post pictures later. The copper ring on solenoid that joins battery power to motor was severely pitted, and the entire solenoid housing was full of cooked metal powder and/or rust powder further hurting conductivity. Fine now!
 
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 03:37 PM
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Check your chassis to body ground strap on the pass. Engine mount as well.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by sleepercoupe
Check your chassis to body ground strap on the pass. Engine mount as well.
Yeah I need to do that - this starter has been perfect though, and once again the temps have tanked to record lows so I've had a good trial run lol.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 12:00 PM
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I find using a 1/4 universal joint on a long extension saves some time. With the heatshields and RF wheel removed, you can break loose the upper bolt with a long combination wrench and sneak in this setup for time saving and ease. I own a set of long locking 1/4" extensions. Helpful for tight spots like this.

GearWrench 81003 3 Piece 1/4-Inch Drive Locking Extension Set - Sockets - Amazon.com GearWrench 81003 3 Piece 1/4-Inch Drive Locking Extension Set - Sockets - Amazon.com

Similar to this set but mine are from Snap on / Blue Point
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by BritishautoworksSD
I find using a 1/4 universal joint on a long extension saves some time. With the heatshields and RF wheel removed, you can break loose the upper bolt with a long combination wrench and sneak in this setup for time saving and ease. I own a set of long locking 1/4" extensions. Helpful for tight spots like this.

GearWrench 81003 3 Piece 1/4-Inch Drive Locking Extension Set - Sockets - Amazon.com

Similar to this set but mine are from Snap on / Blue Point
Come on now, fess up - is it snapy or blue point? 'Cause there's quite a difference...at least in price.

Actually I'm surprised you're using 1/4" for a manifold. I'm not sure of the size or torque spec on the bolts but from past engines that would be pushing the limit for 1/4" stuff. I'm guessing you're using it for space reasons?

fwiw, I own very little Snappy stuff (a couple dual 88 1/2" ratchets and few screwdrivers)...the tools I use day to day for work are mostly Crapsman and gearwrench. Working in a saltwater environment my junk gets rusty so I can't afford to spend money on top shelf tools.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 05:22 PM
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I love me some Snap On! Haha

I dont take the exhaust manifold out for the starter. Just a couple heat shield by the air spring and disconnect the battery. On the lift, takes about 1.5 hrs.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2016 | 03:13 PM
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That's basically what I used for the starter - that job wasn't too bad really.

I wanted to tighten the manifold bolts while I had that wheel and some of the heat shields off, THOSE are the ones I was having issues getting to. I got everything minus the ones directly behind the motor mount and strut area.
 
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