Changing the Transmission Valve Body
Hi - I had my transmission filter replaced by a Euro shop (note: not a Land Rover indy) . They did it the old fashioned way, and reinstalled a one piece filter. I had no issues with this - they were doing it. However, they neglected to replace the transmission valve body - which is now leaking.
Question - Can I drain and undo the filter screws and move the filter to the side just enough to get access to the white pull tab? Then replace the valve body and button it up again?
Or is this a have-to-remove-the-whole-thing sort of deal?
Question - Can I drain and undo the filter screws and move the filter to the side just enough to get access to the white pull tab? Then replace the valve body and button it up again?
Or is this a have-to-remove-the-whole-thing sort of deal?
It sounds like you are talking about the "Mechtronics" unit. You will need to remove pan and filter, if its the plastic pan then you will need a new one as you need to cut the filter to get the pan off. Then you can get to the white lever to release the unit. Better still take it back to garage and tell them its leaking.
You basically break the filter/pan combo to get it off so no way to move it, this is why most owners fit the metal pan upgrade so it can be removed easily and the filter replaced separately.
You can take the 2 nuts off holding down the front engine mounts. You can use a 18mm swivel socket between the battery & engine. The drivers side however you need to pull the wheel. Remove all the heat shielding to get access to the 18mm nut which is snug under the steering shaft. You then need an engine lifting jig using the holes in the ears on the tops of each cylinder head use single chain & hardware to thru bolt pulling straight up from each point. . Remove a few evap hoses & air cleaner / tbody snorkel, remove the top rad fan shroud. crank up on the engine as high as it will go. That will give you just enough room to weasel the pan out caddy wampus style, lower the pan turn the front of the pan towards the passenger side to escape the filter tube from the transmission. It will be a snug fit but its doable. You will also have to remove the cross member but can leave the exhaust alone. Even with a lift and all the tools its and all day job. What a mess. Love the engineering team that put this garbage together ! The trick is cleaning everything. Any hardware that has collected rust or dirt should be cleaned good. any pan bolts, chase with tap and die, compressed air... otherwise you can count on crossing a thread or 2.
You can take the 2 nuts off holding down the front engine mounts. You can use a 18mm swivel socket between the battery & engine. The drivers side however you need to pull the wheel. Remove all the heat shielding to get access to the 18mm nut which is snug under the steering shaft. You then need an engine lifting jig using the holes in the ears on the tops of each cylinder head use single chain & hardware to thru bolt pulling straight up from each point. . Remove a few evap hoses & air cleaner / tbody snorkel, remove the top rad fan shroud. crank up on the engine as high as it will go. That will give you just enough room to weasel the pan out caddy wampus style, lower the pan turn the front of the pan towards the passenger side to escape the filter tube from the transmission. It will be a snug fit but its doable. You will also have to remove the cross member but can leave the exhaust alone. Even with a lift and all the tools its and all day job. What a mess. Love the engineering team that put this garbage together ! The trick is cleaning everything. Any hardware that has collected rust or dirt should be cleaned good. any pan bolts, chase with tap and die, compressed air... otherwise you can count on crossing a thread or 2.
1) I don't know for sure but would bet you have to pull the pan completely to get to the valve body out. If you didn't, trans fluid would be leaking all over you from that pan! The clip is also up there and the new unit is tight so it helps to push from the outside and pull from the inside just to get it seated enough for the clip to engage. I recall using a screwdriver for leverage.
2) I'd strongly recommend replacing the transmission solenoids if you're going to be in there. My 06 LR3 had a clunky 1st gear for most of its life. Took it to the dealer and also an indy shop, but they didn't find any issues. Last year one of the solenoids finally bit the dust, locking my gears. Swapping those solenoids out was the most enjoyable fix I've done on this rig! Now she shifts like a dream through all the gears up and down! Punches through 1st gear and doesn't stumble going down into first any longer.
I just removed mines on friday and waiting on parts to rebuild it.
I removed the 2 bolts holding the passenger side motor mount. Removed passenger cat + pipe.
Lifted engine about 4 inches and you can twist the pan out.
Also, removing the driver side motor mount is not that difficult with extensions, its just im doing this by myself and i didn't want to fiddle around trying to put the motor mounts back into their holes.
It took me less than 2 hours to remove the valve body.
I removed the 2 bolts holding the passenger side motor mount. Removed passenger cat + pipe.
Lifted engine about 4 inches and you can twist the pan out.
Also, removing the driver side motor mount is not that difficult with extensions, its just im doing this by myself and i didn't want to fiddle around trying to put the motor mounts back into their holes.
It took me less than 2 hours to remove the valve body.
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