So as I've been laid off a week or so I've been doing some work on the old LR3. It is an 05 V6 model with 295,000 miles on it. For most of those miles it has been a fantastic vehicle however today is not one of those days. Yesterday I changed the oil and it ran fine, so today I thought I might tackle the radio which hasn't been working for some time. I went out to the old rover, propped the hood open with some pipe, and started pulling each fuse for corrosion while looking for any blown fuses. I checked them all and put them back into place (In the right spots, 100%sure) then took a look at the fusebox behind the glovebox. After finding no trouble in either of the boxes, I popped open the dash around the radio and started to check for signs of life, but to do that I had to put the key in. I received the following morning greeting from the LR:

No crank, no start
SUSPENSION FAULT
DSC FAULT
ENGINE FAULT
TRANSMISSION FAULT
PARKING BRAKE FAULT
And the oil temp sensor doesn't come down from max

So obviously I knocked something loose right? Well, I would have thought so but I spent the next 5 hours rechecking and testing every fuse, the battery, I pulled out the transfer case looking for corrosion, (none found) triple checked every connection I had a hand on, pulled out the fuse box to check for corrosion/connections underneath, did a hard reset several times, checked and double checked the brake switch, and nothing. I tried everything I could find as far as related problems posted on the internet.

At this point I think my best route is to replace the brake switch anyways and cross my fingers, or there is a 60A air suspension fuse that I can replace in the fusebox. That fuse I expect has been blown for some time as the vehicle had the air suspension replaced with a regular suspension a while ago.

I am at a loss, and I would sincerely appreciate any suggestions.

 

 

Did you try to start it it? or just look at the lights on the dash while the key is in position II ?

I plugged my iiDTool into the car when it was running one time. I got more lights on the dash than there are stars in front of Grauman's Chinese Theater. Turned off car, removed the IIDTool, started the car and all was fine.

So again, did you try to start it, and if so what happened?

Jeff

 

Got it fixed after rebuilding the fuse box according to the owner's manual. Insane how such a small issue can cause a catastrophic failure.

Thanks for the replies!

 

what did you do to "rebuild the fuse box." My 2006 Range Rover Sport 4.4 has a fuse issue. The engine bay fuse box over the front passenger wheel well. The fuse is in the position F20. It hold a 5 amp fuse. The 5 amp alternator fuse does not "seat" well. As a result I have fuse box issues too. I am not getting voltage to the battery. The shop told me that due to potential liability issues, the only way that they can fix it is to install a whole new wiring harness, including the fuse box. He told me that I could go in from underneath the fuse box and recrimp the fuse holders, my word not his. Anyone have experience with this. thanks Phil

 

I removed everything again, looked at the owner's manual, and reinstalled everything according to original specs.

For you, you have a wiring problem somewhere, if power is not getting to the fuse you have a lot of options as far as rigging something depending on what the fuse goes to and how much you need it. You just need to get power there, which can be done with a wire obviously. What I would check... I don't know what you mean by wheel well, but if you mean engine bay that fuse box is removable and accessible underneath without much bother. Get it loose and take your meter, see if you have power on the positive side where the crimp is, if you do it's just a poor connection, re crimp and re install. If you don't, unfortunately your situation will become more complicated.

 

Hey Phil, Yes, It happens. The shop is right, get under the fuse box and first try to reseat the wire connectors at the issue fuse. If not then see if you can re crimp.