LR3 Woes - Confused.
So...I went out monday morning and started things up. I received a transmission fault/limited gears available fault, trans fault traction reduced, stuck in low gear with blinking lights on the high low lever, engine system fault and locked into park. Revs sounded pretty normal for a few seconds and then the nav screen, radio and lights went off. Checked the battery voltage and it was a little low (11.4). Left it until the next morning, voltage was 1.88 and obviously wouldn't even start. Bought a new battery and it started up with same issues. Today my new battery won't turn over the motor. Dead.
Any idea what this could be? I've been researching for days and I'm more confused than before. Thanks in advance.
Any idea what this could be? I've been researching for days and I'm more confused than before. Thanks in advance.
11.4 is too low, however it shouldn't lose all that power in a single night. Something is drawing way too much power, do you have any accessories you added on/have you made any changes to the wiring? Check the alternator and all your fuses and relays. Something is way out of whack with the electrical system, this is almost always the cause of all the bells and whistles going off at once. I'm surprised we don't have a name for this issue as it is so common, ETSFOD? (Engine Transmission Suspension Faults of Death)
When you say dead, is the new battery dead too? Charge it and leave it disconnected while you do all the diagnostic work, then test for any loss to ensure you didn't just happen to get a bad battery. Another thing to check is the brake light switch, and to make sure all your bulbs are proper spec. Also, make sure the passenger side wire loom isn't in a puddle. It's under the uh, I don't know, door skid between the passenger seat and the door. Fairly straightforward to remove. Just clips, pop ins.
All in all my bet is you either have a major power draw on some accessory or another or the alternator is some kind of messed up. Don't have an IID tool by chance do you? It would be a major help in determining where the electrical fault is. If not, buy a cheap OBD hook up and see what you can get off that.
When you say dead, is the new battery dead too? Charge it and leave it disconnected while you do all the diagnostic work, then test for any loss to ensure you didn't just happen to get a bad battery. Another thing to check is the brake light switch, and to make sure all your bulbs are proper spec. Also, make sure the passenger side wire loom isn't in a puddle. It's under the uh, I don't know, door skid between the passenger seat and the door. Fairly straightforward to remove. Just clips, pop ins.
All in all my bet is you either have a major power draw on some accessory or another or the alternator is some kind of messed up. Don't have an IID tool by chance do you? It would be a major help in determining where the electrical fault is. If not, buy a cheap OBD hook up and see what you can get off that.
Last edited by Identamerican; Sep 11, 2019 at 01:59 PM.
11.4 is too low, however it shouldn't lose all that power in a single night. Something is drawing way too much power, do you have any accessories you added on/have you made any changes to the wiring? Check the alternator and all your fuses and relays. Something is way out of whack with the electrical system, this is almost always the cause of all the bells and whistles going off at once. I'm surprised we don't have a name for this issue as it is so common, ETSFOD? (Engine Transmission Suspension Faults of Death)
When you say dead, is the new battery dead too? Charge it and leave it disconnected while you do all the diagnostic work, then test for any loss to ensure you didn't just happen to get a bad battery. Another thing to check is the brake light switch, and to make sure all your bulbs are proper spec. Also, make sure the passenger side wire loom isn't in a puddle. It's under the uh, I don't know, door skid between the passenger seat and the door. Fairly straightforward to remove. Just clips, pop ins.
All in all my bet is you either have a major power draw on some accessory or another or the alternator is some kind of messed up. Don't have an IID tool by chance do you? It would be a major help in determining where the electrical fault is. If not, buy a cheap OBD hook up and see what you can get off that.
When you say dead, is the new battery dead too? Charge it and leave it disconnected while you do all the diagnostic work, then test for any loss to ensure you didn't just happen to get a bad battery. Another thing to check is the brake light switch, and to make sure all your bulbs are proper spec. Also, make sure the passenger side wire loom isn't in a puddle. It's under the uh, I don't know, door skid between the passenger seat and the door. Fairly straightforward to remove. Just clips, pop ins.
All in all my bet is you either have a major power draw on some accessory or another or the alternator is some kind of messed up. Don't have an IID tool by chance do you? It would be a major help in determining where the electrical fault is. If not, buy a cheap OBD hook up and see what you can get off that.
I have not added any accessories or messed around with any electrics/wiring. The new battery wouldn't start this morning after installing it yesterday evening. It started fine then (with all the above problems still), but was drained to the point of not turning over this morning. Something is sucking them dry, but no idea what.
I'm a rookie when it comes to engines (outside of cleaning mass air flow, throttle bodies and other basic stuff). Unfortunately, I don't have a IID tool. Where's a good place to pick one up, model etc? I'll check into the other stuff too. From what I've read over the past few days, I've seen some of your suggestions pop up but not with the battery drain issue as one of the symptoms (could have missed that however). I would definitely like to at least attempt to sort this on my own before taking it in to the shop if possible. How would I go about testing the alternator and fuses on my own. Sorry for my ignorance...I'm handy, but engines are a whole new world for me.
Thanks again.
The draw without the vehicle running leads me to believe its more than the alternator. IID tool is purchased from a variety of sources, including amazon, lucky 8, and the IID website. It is 500+ USD so I would understand if you're hesitant to purchase, however it has helped me greatly. If you learn to work on vehicles through the LR3 you will be able to work on anything. The tool would allow you to see where the power drain is coming from and is extremely helpful with electrical issues.
Off the top of my head, my idea for diagnosing the problem without the tool is to install a fully charged battery without any fuses/relays installed. If it is still draining power you know the issue is separate from the fusebox and most of the vehicle's electrical systems, it would tell you the alternator or other integral parts are at fault such as the battery its self. If there is no draw, install each relay/fuse one at a time and measure the amperage. I would lean toward a relay because a fuse would certainly burn out if it was drawing enough power to drain a battery overnight.
High amp fuses are also suspect, definitely monitor the reinstall of those.
Thinking about it, the compressor running 24/7 would cause this kind of draw although it really shouldn't due to the way the truck is controlled. Have you had any problems with the air suspension recently? Have any sides of the truck been sinking with the dead battery?
Off the top of my head, my idea for diagnosing the problem without the tool is to install a fully charged battery without any fuses/relays installed. If it is still draining power you know the issue is separate from the fusebox and most of the vehicle's electrical systems, it would tell you the alternator or other integral parts are at fault such as the battery its self. If there is no draw, install each relay/fuse one at a time and measure the amperage. I would lean toward a relay because a fuse would certainly burn out if it was drawing enough power to drain a battery overnight.
High amp fuses are also suspect, definitely monitor the reinstall of those.
Thinking about it, the compressor running 24/7 would cause this kind of draw although it really shouldn't due to the way the truck is controlled. Have you had any problems with the air suspension recently? Have any sides of the truck been sinking with the dead battery?
Last edited by Identamerican; Sep 11, 2019 at 05:27 PM.
I agree that alternator could be the issue, I have seen rare occasions where a winding breaks and shorts to ground or something like that. Basically the alternator itself is shorted out. Certainly do what is just above this post though, you clearly have a major issue and it can probably be located.
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