So, here's a dump of the codes that are showing up when the computer is responding....
Like I said, if I go down and power it up, it will appear to come up normally but no codes are visible at that point.
I have to let it sit there with the key on for about 10 minutes or so and then it will pop up the transmission fault message on the screen.
At that point, then the following codes are listed.
U0100 from mod $18
U0102 from mod $10
U0126 from mod $10
U0138 from mod $10
U0121 from mod $10
U0300 from mod $10
U0102 from mod $10
U0167 from mod $10
U0155 from mod $10
and U2023 from mod $18

So everything appears to be coming from MOD $18 which if my research is correct is the transmission ECU, and MOD $10, again if my research is correct is the ECM.
So not sure what to make of that... Will start and run once it displays the transmission fault, but not before.

So, no go on the used ECMs huh... That sucks.
What about this, I did see another listing on eBay that came with the ECM, the security module, 2 keys and the ignition switch...
I would assume I could burn my vin into that one and actually get that to start, shouldn't I?

The main problem is, I just really can't afford right now to take it somewhere and let somebody spend days or weeks tracing down the electrical system... Unless of course it's a wiring issue somewhere.

My cousin(not a LR guy but an ASE master tech) suggested that I go in with SDD and attempt to reload the code into the ECM and maybe even the TCM just to see if it may just be some code that's gotten corrupted.
Even with my knock off mongoose, I don't really see where I have much to loose by trying that at this point, or am I missing something major on that line of logic?
I figure the worst I could do at this point as actually brick the ECM (assuming it's not already a paperweight) and wouldn't be able to start it at all, which is only marginally worse than what I have now...

Any thoughts?

 

I don't know what those codes mean.

i use an Autologic and it give a code with an explanation, like "transmission module lost communication with engine PCM", or something like that.

You could give the software update a try, unless you do it wrong and brick it.

The set you saw on eBay won't work. There are too many VIN specific modules on the LR3. For instance the trans Mechatronics is in the trans behind the valve body. The parking brake actuator is also VIN specific just to name 2.

 

You should put your location in your signature. Maybe there is another member nearby with a more capable scan tool that would help.

 

This is a cheap fix if it works and if it does not, still costs nothing.

It is common for the electrical connector pins on the top of the ECU to lose connection due to corrosion, either from rain/car wash water or battery fumes. Also I am certain your tranny computer is OK, just not getting good signal. It is rare for any of the pcb stuff to fail - except for the key fob pcb where the solder joint cracks that ties the rechargeable battery to the board.

Corrosion is the primary reason LR provided the battery vent hose per the jpg's below - to direct battery fumes away from the nearby electrical.

I have a dual battery setup and the aux battery jpg shows the hose better, but the white elbow on the main battery is also connected to a factory vent hose.

If you do not have the vent hose connected, then the odds are that over time, battery fumes have got at the tranny computers connectors.

The other jpg's show the tranny computer located behind the battery and with the cover off exposing the connectors. Also note the black electrical tape wrapped around the top of the rubber boots. This is an attempt to tighten up the top of the boots to keep rain and car wash water from being funneled to the connectors. The only way to keep battery fumes away to via the vent hose.

I think the reason your 3 eventually starts is that like all corrosion problems, they are not instant or overnight. Corrosion starts small and builds over time. The fact the engine starts etc means that power is still getting thru, but in minute quantities, hence the time delay for a charge to be seen at the pcb.

Also if you have not replaced your brake light switch, do so. That is twenty five dollars and solves more problems than you can count. In your case, I do not think the brake light switch is the primary problem but it can be adding to it. Normally when the 3 quits due to electrical problems, there are multiple problems to be resolved.

Also check your brake and tail light bulbs for operation. A burned out filament can drop across the second filament and throw the 3 into tranny fits. I recommend factory dealer bulbs, not far east sourced bulbs. Those far east bulbs can just to too expensive due to the problems they will cause the various computers.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Brake Light Switch Replacement

 

Actually, on the thread I started after this one regarding the problem of it not starting/running someone suggested pulling the controllers and checking them over...
So yesterday when I was down here at work messing with it, I took the time to do that.
Pulled both and checked them over pretty carefully. All the pins are in very good shape considering the age of the truck... all but the very tips of the pins were nice and shiny and not showing any corrision I would be at all concerned about. The cases of both controllers look very clean and the connectors are firm seating, don't move around and the wiring to them appears to be in pretty decent shape. no obvious crimps or anything visible really.

Also, seen the stories about the instrument cluster being a problem with the CAN bus(s) so, I took the time to pull it out of the weekend too, cable was nice and firm, looks in good shape... So don't think that's the problem...

I am just running a single battery setup, but the vent tube has always stayed hooked up and routed FAR away from anything sensitive... I have always been very careful about that, cause yeah, what havoc can be caused by the stupid battery exhaust...

Actually did check over the brake lights and everything is good there, pulled each one and checked it to make sure and they all look good.
The brake light switch is however something I have not done... So I am sure that it's time to swap that out.

abran: yeah, never really thought about that... I'm in Birmingham AL...

Ohh, and I just pulled up my last SDD session with my truck, which was week before last... I was trying to go in and set tight tolerance mode for an alignment but it was being obstinate, didn't look at the codes at that time, but here's what it's listing it saw in mileage order...
U0416-86 at 219,227 and going down from here...
U0155-87
C1A75-1C
B0028-1B
B0072-1B
B0052-1D
B00A0-88
C1130-66
U0416-94
U0155-87
U0155-87
U0122-87
U0300-55

Then with unknown milage...
U0010-88
U0010-87
U0132-87
U0140-87
U0127-87
U0184-87
B1A87-68
U3FF0-00
P0127-00
P0175-00
P0441-00
P0513-00
U0426-00
U0167-00
and P0576-16

 

Bruce,

Can you go into more detail Re: the vents? is this a DIY thing to add to the battery?

 

So, I just went over to the little indi LR shop here in town and talked to them...
Really not a fan of those guys, as they are almost as stuck up and annoying to deal with as the LR dealership here in town...

Anyway, told them what I was seeing and he is pretty sure it's an electrical issue of some sort, not a failed controller.

So my biggest question at this point is this, what are the odds do you think of it being wiring/electrical vs a dead ECM (or other controller) vs being a software issue?

I really don't have the cash handy to pay someone to spend god only knows how long digging through the wiring of this stupid thing, specially if it's not a wiring issue...
I would be willing to take a stab at reflashing the ECM with my China-goose, after all, the worst I could do at this point is make it not crank at all.
Or, tracking down a new controller and getting the indi guys to flash it for me... Don't think I would trust the china-goose on a brand new controller...

At the end of the day, I just need it working without spending a boatload of money for some tech to spend days or weeks looking at it...

 

Regarding venting of the battery, and do it yourself, yes and no.

The LR3 in its stock form from the factory in the UK came with a CaCa battery internal design installed with a built in vent hole on each end.

The vented end closest to the cowl was plugged off with a cap, and the end closest to the grill had a 90 degree elbow to which was attached a suitable sized rubber vent hose about five feet long that ended near the battery side fog light within that corner bumper black plastic.

The idea was that battery gases would exit thru the hose down to the front bumper as that area is all plastic without much wiring. The thinking was that battery gases would not do much damage there; at least less damage than if they exhausted near the tranny pcb board.

I mentioned the blank off cap on the cowl end of the battery for a reason. If the cap gets blown out, then guess the route the battery gas takes - the easiest, and the nice hose vent set up is just there for the ride.

Since my Traxide auxiliary battery install is not factory Land Rover, I then had to add the hose venting myself when I did the install. The good news is that USA sized windshield washer hose parts generally fit; 3/16" if I recall correctly but whatever it takes, the size is determined by the OD of the battery vent. I also vented the hose into the front bumper near the fog light.

Some guys are now installing those Optima Spiralcell type that I think do not have any vent holes. As such, I suppose the gas problem is resolved with that design, however they are not my favorite starting battery for a 3.

I guess I am biased towards the older CaCa design Interstate that yes, it gases, but the internal regulator within the Denso alternator was designed for the CaCa charging characteristics.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Traxide Dual Battery install in LHDrive

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 miscellaneous

 

Have you considered taking it to the dealer to reflash it or at least hook it up to their system to see if your software is solid?

From what I've experienced and was able to observe when I had my software scanned and updated, the dealers interface for Land Rovers and Jags is far more sofisticated and feature packed and capable than the best aftermarket scanner... not even close. There are just certain things only Rover knows and can do well, unfortunately.
Imo, certain tasks are best (necessary) handled by the people that engineered this "marvel".

 

Sometimes one does have to give up and surrender to the dealer.

These days, their diagnostic computers connect right back to Solihull, and with luck, all those codes mean something to the factory data banks - in other words, they have probably seen and fixed the problem before.

Data banks now exist as all the manufacturers have discovered that it is virtually impossible to field diagnose the problems the manufacturers are now building into their vehicles.

It is not that the manufacturers care about you; it is that they care about their warranty costs given that most upper end vehicles are now leased, not purchased. This means the manufacturer is stuck with them at least for four years and sometimes longer given the extended warranties now offered to get the lease backs off the lot a second time.

The manufactures have got themselves into a spot where they now have to fix or junk what they produce. They do not any longer have the luxury of build, ship, and abandon.