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Do I need to bleed coolant system after replacing thermostat

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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 11:25 AM
  #21  
houm_wa's Avatar
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From: North of Seattle
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I was out in my tool shed the other day. I was looking through my spare parts bin and I have most all of the coolant hoses and fittings since I replaced them in '14 before a trip to the Yukon Territory. So I found the bleeder T. I was looking at it, thinking to myself 'yeah, it's plastic but it feels pretty strong,' and as I was flexing it, the the thing developed a crack.

So I see what you mean. Even though I have a 2 year old one installed now, I'm going to replace it with a brass one and keep the plastic one for a spare. Running these engines out of coolant is a death blow. I'm taking no chances.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 05:02 PM
  #22  
schwaggy's Avatar
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From: Pacific Northwest
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Originally Posted by houm_wa
...I'm going to replace it with a brass one and keep the plastic one for a spare...
Unless it cracks when you remove it
 
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 05:57 PM
  #23  
houm_wa's Avatar
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From: North of Seattle
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Ha! Good point. I sure hope it doesn't since it's only 2 years and about 10,000 miles old!
 
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Old Feb 23, 2016 | 07:27 PM
  #24  
EstorilM's Avatar
Winching
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FWIW mine died while driving down a gravel road to my barn - I was using my spidey-senses that day and actually noticed an unusually strong coolant smell from hvac vents. I know the vehicle enough that it actually convinced me to open the hood and take the engine cover off - sure enough, the tee had blown apart and was spewing coolant. Somehow I noticed it, pulled over and parked without loosing more than a half gallon of coolant! I managed to rig something in the woods there - I think I got a section of tubing and two hose clamps - re-bled the system then shoved the ends together and clamped it. Replaced it with the brass version a few days later at the shop.

Had I been towing the horse trailer to KY on I-81 in the middle of nowhere at highway speeds I probably would have drained the system and just noticed the overheat "bong" which really scares me just thinking about it!
 
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 11:39 AM
  #25  
mx468's Avatar
Winching
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From: Newport, Rhode Island
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I bought this online for under $30 to replace my bleeder screw. Same as falconworks but $30 cheaper
 
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 03:56 PM
  #26  
EstorilM's Avatar
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Originally Posted by mx468
I bought this online for under $30 to replace my bleeder screw. Same as falconworks but $30 cheaper
That works, but I still don't know why everyone in this thread insists on spending 6x - 15x more money for the same chunk of brass you can buy at any old redneck autoparts store! lol
 
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 04:09 PM
  #27  
Zelatore's Avatar
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Originally Posted by EstorilM
That works, but I still don't know why everyone in this thread insists on spending 6x - 15x more money for the same chunk of brass you can buy at any old redneck autoparts store! lol
Because Land Rover da**it!

(Note I have the redneck version myself, so I may be at risk of loosing all credibility as a LR owner. I didn't even have a cucumber finger sandwich for lunch, just plain ol' ham and swiss.)
 
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 06:24 PM
  #28  
Ryan Hood's Avatar
1st Gear
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My Bleeder T valve broke into little bits yesterday (Saturday). Fortunately, I was close to the house before she heated up. I have an 06 LR3.
No repair shops or parts stores open on Sunday, and needed the truck fixed asap. Went over to Home Depot and bought (2) 3/8 X 1/4 Barbs, 1/4 T connector, and 1/4 plug.
Seems to be holding up just fine.










 
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