First day driving it after performing a lot of repairs. This is that reservoir bottles FIRST voyage. Should I sell the car now?

 

Haha. Doesn't look like much of a leak.

BTW - Nice Colour!

 

Is that straight water ?, should be OAT coolant.

 

It is. It’s just a little diluted from the loss in changing the coolant overflow and the heater core flush. I re-added distilled water and radiator flush. Was going to cycle that for a couple of days, flush with distilled water again, then add the concentrate OAT.

 

Make sure you vacuum out as much as you can especially if you have rear HVAC system. Which is easy since you can pull from the rear lines. Then I add 1.5 gal concentrate to ensure I reached a good mix. After that I only top with 50/50 to get it right to proper level.

And that is not an OEM expansion tank. Kinda surprised though since 16 psi is not a lot.

 

Good tips. Thank you, I didn’t consider that. Where are you vacuuming exactly? Upper rad hose to engine or lower? Any issues with thermostat not open when cool?

i “thought” that the tank on it before was OEM. Corroded and all, and that rad cap was from it. The Dorman one I just bought (lifetime warranty, 3X the cost) has a 200 kPa cap, 29 psi. Which one is OEM pressure?

 

If you are standing in front looking at the engine, the rear coolant lines are on the right along the battery box. But they join at a fitting closer up front and a little below the intake tube. Easy to reach and good for flushing the rear end or sucking out water to make sure you get all your concentrate in.

The 16psi is correct. The other cap is for the LR4 5.0 I believe. You do NOT want to use that cap. In fact the caps might not be interchangeable because of a difference in threads. Also, Dorman is crap. You paid 3x for the exact same item. Get OEM, Rein, API (API is almost always an OEM part anyway). But Dorman, ÜRO and a few others are poor in quality.

 

Ha, Rogers that. It was cheaper than a tow for the near term. Will upgrade to OEM.

I don’t have rear HVAC lines (SE). I thought you were taking about vacuuming out the fluid that remains in the block.

 

Ah... good thing ya don't. Less coolant needed! But getting fluid out of the block is a pain. Might actually try reversing the shop van to blow it out a bit. With things very open of course. Also why it is a good idea to flush one last time with distilled water before adding concentrate. So any water that remains is clean and proper for mixing.