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Yes, rear wheel bearing and hub assembly are sold separately. Not possible to purchase a combined unit, with bearing already pressed into hub. Therefore, much more complicated job than replacing front bearings. Consider swapping out other rear parts at same time.
I'll provide more details if I have time tomorrow.
^ Correct. When I did my full rebuild I spent over a year getting a couple key parts which included two new rear knuckles. By holding out, I got them for a song and a dance but it took a while. I did this because I could install new rear brake shields and bearings on my own tie before the full suspension swap. That way I had a set all ready to go right on. Rear knuckles do come with new rose/ball joints on top and bottom. But installation is not terribly hard. Getting the old bearing out can be a pain. You need a floor stand press or something wicked powerful and stationary to remove and install the new ones. If you do end up doing them, DO NOT FORGET THAT THERE IS A CIR-CLIP! New bearing often come with a new clip. But if you forget its there and done remove it first, well have fun!
By the way you check the rear bearing like the front. Just jack a side of and see if the wheel moves around too much.
The wheel moves quite a bit, but it looks like there is suspension "play" involved with that, and I know that upper control arm bushing is shot so it's hard to tell what is causing the play. That said, with the wheel removed and wiggling just the rotor/hub there is not a lot of play. A buddy of mine who spent decades as a Tech (at Nissan) and is now a Metro Bus Mechanic tells me that bearings can still be worn even if there is no play. I think the best move is to replace that upper control arm and that bearing. I'm getting tired of throwing parts at it, but I KNOW that the upper control arm bush is toast so that's not a waste, at least.
....I wish I didn't love this dang Rover so much!!!
They could be NTN but Timken is normally the OEM for bearings on a Rover. So I bought Timken for the rears. Not expensive, I paid $60 each. But I think I did order the cir-clips separate, I dont recall if the Timkens came with new ones. And you may be able to reuse the old anyway if they come out clean.
No clue who really makes the arms. I actually think real OEM may actually be made by LR themselves with the bushings often Lemforder. I get my arms from LR Direct or LR Parts.net. LR051622 and LR051623 are the rear arm part numbers. If you shop at LR Direct, as an example, the "BRITPART OEM" is $116. This will usually come in a Britpart box and inside will be an arm with the LR logos ground off from the bushings. If you want fancy LR stickers on the box, you pay $398. What sucks is shipping, which has gone WAY up post-COVID. Shipping one arm is $64 for a total on the Britpart OEM at $180.00. I am not sure how it all plays out today, but back when I did my front and rear rebuilds, even with shipping costing me hundreds in the end for all those control arms and such I still came out WAY a head of any US source for OEM parts. With higher shipping, it is hard to say. Also there are cheaper options form the UK for parts, going back to the same example I have been using (LR051622) you can get a Britpart on-OEM for just $78. Personally I am not a fan of aftermarket parts for mission critical items like suspension. And I am not a huge fan of Britpart, but they have come a way and many use their parts with no issue.
I will add that since the rear knuckles come off to do the bearings, you may have to replace the upper and lower rose/ball joints in the knuckles. One also has a circlip and is installed a certain direction. And there is a chance the bolts will have to cut on at least the lower. Yet another reason I had that set I built and ready to drop in, so I did not have to deal with all that on one day.
I have extensive lists of part numbers for doing full builds:
RYG000384 camber bolt at upper ball joint x2
RYH500191 nut at upper ball joint x2
RYF000182 camber washer at upper ball joint x2
FC116216 bolt at lower ball joint x2
FX116056 nut @ lower joint (also used @ strut and frame bolt) x2 if doing just knuckle, x6 total if doing all hardware
If you are replacing the hardware at the upper arms, cause odds are the bolts have to be cut. Need two of everything below if doing both sides:
FC116216 bolt at frame
RYH501060 captive nut at frame
FC114206 bolt at frame
RYH500280 captive nut at frame
Are there any complications with the parking brake drum? What I mean is, I know it has to be removed. When re-installed, I'd there any adjustment or calibration necessary??
Welcome, the above is distilled for what you need. I should make a post of my lists that I made which are more extensive. Much easier/clearer than shop books which is why I made em. But for brakes, I am sure you have seen Bodsy's Brake Bible? Goes over the procedure.
