I know of Bodsy's, yes....though I haven't really studied it. I am asking because, and it's a long story, the work is going to be done by a local Infiniti dealer, so if there is specific EPB adjustment that has to be done after they re-install it, I'll want to make them aware. Sounds like there is....

 

Hey all, does the LR3 need to be aligned after a rear (upper) control arm is replaced?

 

My 2006 rear upper and lower all had Delphi stickers on them, I don't think they've ever been replaced. I put 120K miles on them and they were fine. When I swapped them I decided to go with Mevotech Supreme based on some British forums I was reading. The bushings are supposed to be rated higher and they were very affordable on RockAuto. I read something about the RR Sport control arms being compatible and recommended because they are of higher spec than LR3 arms and are used for armor-plated Rovers. But it was late so please don't rely on this without doing your research.

I would also recommend getting the rear sway bar end links and sway bar bushings swapped during this job. They are cheap and right there. About as accessible as they will ever get. I went Lemforder and Delphi respectively.

Great thread, adding to it... I also got tools to replace the rose ball bushings at the top and bottom of the rear wheel knuckles myself and went with Lemforder. Very high quality and I understand they were OEM as well. Here are tools that worked successfully:

• Astro Pneumatic Tool 7897 21Pc Ball Joint Service Tool and Master Adapter Set ($130 US on amazon)
• Astro Pneumatic Tool 78100 Goliath Ball Joint XL C-Frame Press ($80 on amazon, I needed this for some extra room on the lower bushing)

Not much salt in my area and this was doable with a long wrench or cheater bar. It was easy with a high torque 1300 ft-lb battery-powered impact wrench (these things are awesome, mine zips the axle nuts off in two seconds!). The bushings can be done with the Asro tools above while it's on the car or off. To replace on-vehicle, pull the rotor, axle nut, CV half axle then:
A) unbolt the top of the wheel knuckle (leaving the lower bolted on) and swing it down from the vehicle where the bushing can be swapped, then
B) bolt up the top, loosen the bottom, and swing it up to work.

Reminder to compress the suspension before final torquing. I recall it's 485mm in the rear measured from the center of the axle to the top of the wheel well arch.

 

Thanks for all the extra info. The sway bar end links and bushings are fairly fresh. I got the Lemforder control arm and Timken wheel bearing.

Anything to add regarding alignment after a rear upper control arm R&R?? I know I'd need one after the front (lowers) but not sure about this case.....

 

Yes, you need an alignment after pretty much anything in the rear is changed because the rear knuckle is adjustable at all three points - upper arm, lower arm and rear link.

I have Mevotech front lowers because Rock was selling them at close-out for $50/side and read they are good. No issues so far. Otherwise I am 100% OEM. RR sport are not higher spec, just stiffer bushings. That does not mean they last longer though. And same for links, I have Lemforders in the rear and they still look brand new. Not rusting. My fronts are Delphi and holing up super well but look old and rusty now.

 

Thanks...I'll plan to take it into Firestone and do the Lifetime Alignment.