First, I apologize for "Yet another EAS suspension fault" thread, but I'm at my wits end and have exhausted google and the enthusiast forums for help.
Here's my situation - My US '06 LR3 HSE is throwing numerous faults. At the moment I'm getting a Suspension fault - IID identifies it as a "C1A00-1D (AF) Control module - General electrical failure - circuit current out of range" and an HDC fault.
I'd like to focus on the suspension fault in this thread.
I've followed all the conventional wisdom for easy fixes -

• checked all the fuses in engine and glove compartments
• replaced the brake lamps with LR replacements
• replaced the brake switch (twice)
• replaced the battery - was showing 11.9 volts but curiously was starting the car just fine...
• checked the transfer case control module and connections behind battery (fine)
• checked battery ground (fine)
• checked the valve block connections at compressor (fine)
• replaced EAS compressor with aftermarket compressor
• bypassed EAS relay with heavy gauge wire and verified compressor is running and pumping up reservoir. (I only ran it for 30 sec to verify functionality)
• replaced the EAS relay

So now when I start the car I get the suspension amber light and the compressor does not start. The valve blocks valiantly held air and kept the car up for 3 weeks while I've been putzing around with trying to figure it out, but now I'm getting close to the bump stops and am looking for help before I concede defeat and head to the local shop.

One thing of note. This all started when I was fixing a drain hose from the sunroof on the drivers side (LHD). It had rained in San Diego (I know right?) and soaked the floorboards on the drivers side. I believe the ECU is up under the dash (I located it and found it really difficult to access so pursued other options) and suspect either it got wet or wiring under the door sill got soaked and shorted something out.
Any ideas how to get the compressor running again and pumping the car up to height?
Thanks in advance!

 

The compressor does not fill up the reservoir when running unless the valve block for it is open, which is will not be with a fault like that. Just FYI.

Anyway, it sounds like you have a hardware fault. This could be anything from a heigh sensor to a valve block not being plugged it or a damaged wire - might even be a height sensor arm (rod) disconnected physically and pushed out of range.. What I suggest is to use the GAP Tool and do a "Guided Calibration". The more I use the guided calibration function, the more I believe it ignores any system falls are sorta runs the air ride in a "dummy" mode. Meaning it will just run the compressor or just open a valve block even if not connected, etc. So its a nice way to do a very quick test on the entire system and see how it responds to input. For me I have to hold down the up or down arrows, dont just press once like a button. Dont save the calibration, just see if raising each corner actually results in physical activity. Also note the sensor readings.

 

Thanks, that was a good tip. I didn't spend a lot of time with it but that allowed me to pump up the bags and get back on the road. I went around to each corner and tried to make quick adjustments and it seemed like the fronts responded to the IID tools requests but not the backs. I could hear a "ticking" that I imagined was a valve solenoid opening / closing while I was pressing the button but the backs didn't seem to be lowering or raising.
I still have the fault with the same code when I drive. And now get the red "dong" and scolding when I drive over 30 mph.
Thoughts?

 

So to clarify, the ticking sound was from the front or back? That ticking is normal, its the valve blocks regulating the air entering. So if you were adjusting the backs and did not hear ticking, problem. If you did but they were not going up or down, well thats interesting because it means the valve block was apparently responding but no air movement - kinda not possible since the ticking the physical movement of the solenoid in the valve block. Unless it was the center valve block you were hearing. Try again when you have time, the rear valve block is pretty close to the compressor area but its located just in front of the driver side rear strut. You can see it and its connector from the rear wheel well. Listen very closely next time. Also tug on the connector to make sure its not loose. You can probably google image search the rear valve block to get pics and a better idea.

 

The scolding over 30mph is a cross articulation fault...usually a sign of a bad height sensor or a calibration.

 

SOLVED: I took the truck to a quiet parking garage and took the compressor cover off and went through the guided calibration again. The fronts leveled out nicely with the compressor coming on to help. When I got to the rears - nothing. I could hear a ticking which was coming from the compressor area. Nothing from the valve block behind the drivers side rear wheel. I used the IID tool to check the individual valves. Again the fronts worked great and no response from the rears. I pulled the left rear wheel off and loosened the valve block (held on by three rubber grommets) and saw that the connector was inserted in the valve block but not firmly. I pulled it out, cleaned it and squeezed it back in with both my hands and a pair of channel locks for good measure and put a zip tie on it to make sure it stayed where it was and tried again. SUCCESS!. Three weekends of poking around, a replaced compressor, bulbs and brake switch all because of a loose connector. It sure would be nice if the fault code would be more specific.
A big thanks to all who pointed me in the right direction. Feels good to look at an instrument panel with no amber and red lights flashing at me all the time.. (until next time...)