ENGINE REDUCE PERFORMANCE ON MY LR3
Ok buddy , but my friend how much do you think it cost to do the full body trottle change?, to have it as reference so when i do it.. And most important why does this problem happens to our cars??? whats the main thing that causes this failure?.
Thanks
Thanks
That would have to be answered by Tacho or perhaps Discomike or one of the more technically informed guys out there. My repair was covered under warranty so I have no clue as to the cost.
Ok guys, and whats the danger that not changing this can make to the car???? i meen will it damage the engine or something??? LET ME KNOW THANKS GUYS
If you have not had the codes read yet, I would do that first before you go and buy a Throttle Body. It may very well be a bad MAF sensor but you wont know that without reading the codes. I would say, try following the computer codes at least once to see if in fact it is a simple sensor gone bad. But if after changing whatever the code points at the problem persists, then I'm fairly sure you'll find the issue is the Throttle Body.
I am assuming your truck is not yet at the point where it starts cutting off on its own or you would not be cosidering leaving it as is for now. If it hasn't started cutting off, then I don't see where it would damage your engine. However if it is bad enough to cut off on its own, goes without saying, fix it now.
I am assuming your truck is not yet at the point where it starts cutting off on its own or you would not be cosidering leaving it as is for now. If it hasn't started cutting off, then I don't see where it would damage your engine. However if it is bad enough to cut off on its own, goes without saying, fix it now.
My wife's LR3 2006 (8 cyl) got that message a couple of weeks ago. (“REDUCED ENGINE PERFORMANCE"). The truck would get the message and sometimes the message will go away without further consequences. Some other times the truck would stall. Fortunately if the truck stalled, it would turn back on without problem. REALLY ANNOYING though. After observing the truck for a week it was clear that something was not right with the fuel/air intake system. The right mixture of gas/air was not appropriate. Sometimes when IDLE the rpm would vary a lot bet 500 and 1500 rpm. The check engine light came up only once; we took it to our mechanic (NO NEED FOR DEALER if you're out of warranty)... and the computer that read the codes gave a bunch of non-relevant error messages. So, cleaned MAF and did nothing. Changed Air Filter and did nothing. (Thanks Jantiz in this forum for pointing out the TB). THEN CLEANED THE THROTTLE BODY (TB) and problem SOLVED. And you don't have to go to dealer to do it, unless you want to pay between US $ 200 and US $ 350 for a very simple job. Basically go to any advance auto part or like store, buy a spray-can of THROTTLE BODY CLEANER (I used CRC). Go to Dealer and buy the TB gasket (US $ 2.50). And get dirty for 1 hour. 1) Remove engine cover.
2) Unplug plastic wiring plug on the TB.
3) Unscrew fastener that holds the air duct to the TB.
4) Unscrew 4 screws holding TB in place (Very visible and accessible).
5) Remove TB and gasket. (Make sure to disconnect the two small rubber hoses attached to TB).
6) Now take TB aside and clean it thoroughly with the SPRAY CLEANER and a lint free cloth. Make sure you open a close the butterfly inside the TB while spraying it. Use the lint free cloth to remove the gunk that was not removed by the spray itself. Wet the cloth and clean the mouth of the TB receiver in the engine.
Once the TB is crystal clean, mount it back USING THE NEW GASKET and reversing the steps above. Obviously, if you don't want to Do it yourself, just take it to your mechanic and have it cleaned.
I Hope your issue is solved and the REDUCED ENGINE PERFORMANCE light is gone now.
2) Unplug plastic wiring plug on the TB.
3) Unscrew fastener that holds the air duct to the TB.
4) Unscrew 4 screws holding TB in place (Very visible and accessible).
5) Remove TB and gasket. (Make sure to disconnect the two small rubber hoses attached to TB).
6) Now take TB aside and clean it thoroughly with the SPRAY CLEANER and a lint free cloth. Make sure you open a close the butterfly inside the TB while spraying it. Use the lint free cloth to remove the gunk that was not removed by the spray itself. Wet the cloth and clean the mouth of the TB receiver in the engine.
Once the TB is crystal clean, mount it back USING THE NEW GASKET and reversing the steps above. Obviously, if you don't want to Do it yourself, just take it to your mechanic and have it cleaned.
I Hope your issue is solved and the REDUCED ENGINE PERFORMANCE light is gone now.
Great instruction jotaeme!
I had the same problem and I followed your instruction step by step and cleaned both the TB and the MAF Sensor.
It's been two weeks now and I haven't got the "Reduced Engine Performance" message anymore. Let's hope it stays that way.
Thanks everyone for this great forum!!!
I had the same problem and I followed your instruction step by step and cleaned both the TB and the MAF Sensor.
It's been two weeks now and I haven't got the "Reduced Engine Performance" message anymore. Let's hope it stays that way.
Thanks everyone for this great forum!!!
Hello. Could someone please point out where the diode and TB are under the cover? I know nothing about fixing cars but am trying to get it fixed myself..I have removed the engine cover but not quite sure which things you are talking about. thanks a lot in advance!!
Last edited by flat5th; Nov 27, 2011 at 08:48 PM.
Hey everybody, I'm very new to all these, so please help me to figure it out, what I should Do when I have a message on dash that says Reduce Engine Performance!!!!! I just got LR3 , love it, but it had been not even 2 weeks yet, and I received this message from my lovely New??? Car!!!!! Just hope its not major problem!!!???? Please help !!!!!

Rinmud, I must sayI was a bit sceptical with your diagnosis asI too have been dealing with the same symptoms as carlitonsky (Frequent stalling at low speed/stop signs with subsequent check engine light, reduced engine performance message, poor idle, and overall terrible engine performance almost like it was running on7 cylinders. This was an intermittent gripe however seemed to be getting worse. I took it in to the dealer and they said it was the mass airflow sensor (MAF) and a bad thermostat. I changed both myself and it seemed as if that fixed it for about a week then the symptoms came back. I then took it to a "cheep" authorized Land Rover mechanic while it still had the check engine light on. The codes he read pointed to the MAF sensor again andI told himI had just changed it. So he said maybe a leak in one of the vacuum hoses which would cost $140.00 to troubleshoot plus the cost of the bad part. I told him no thanks and performed my own inspection on the vacuum hoses. Everything was in good condition. A few days agoI ran across this post and figuredI would look into the diode. I removed the engine cover and located the diode, then turned on the engine and gave the diode a squeeze. Sure enough the engine started spazzing out just like it would at stop signs. This also cased the diode to finally keel over and die as my truck was no longer drivable. I calledmy L/R dealer and ordered the part which wasn't in stock ($18.00) and should have it here byTuesday.I am 100% positive this will end my head scratching on this issue and would like to thank rinmud for saving me the grief ofwasting tons of money on shotgun troubleshooting. Now I candrive myRover without embarrassment and withthis new found confidenceI may even take her off road.....
Oh, buy the way I checked with the Ford dealer for the samediode and they quoted $7.50 but they too were out of stock.
Oh, buy the way I checked with the Ford dealer for the samediode and they quoted $7.50 but they too were out of stock.

