Front Control arms only or rear?
#1
03-12-2018, 06:13 AM
Join Date: May 2017
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Front Control arms only or rear?
Hello all, I need front lower control arms for my 3, if the fronts are bad should I also do the rear lower?
what about the front upper? I am leaning towards doing the front lower and upper both and leaving the rear, is that what I should do?
I know my post is scattered and I appologize
what about the front upper? I am leaning towards doing the front lower and upper both and leaving the rear, is that what I should do?
I know my post is scattered and I appologize
#2
03-12-2018, 09:18 AM
Uppers usually go when off-roading more. The lowers are standard during street use.
If you want to refresh the whole front do lowers, uppers, inner/outer tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, and sway bar links.
The front end will feel brand new.
Rears are not as common. If you check the frame tabs where the bushings rest in and see shiny metal they need to be done.
If you want to refresh the whole front do lowers, uppers, inner/outer tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, and sway bar links.
The front end will feel brand new.
Rears are not as common. If you check the frame tabs where the bushings rest in and see shiny metal they need to be done.
#3
03-12-2018, 09:28 AM
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Uppers usually go when off-roading more. The lowers are standard during street use.
If you want to refresh the whole front do lowers, uppers, inner/outer tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, and sway bar links.
The front end will feel brand new.
Rears are not as common. If you check the frame tabs where the bushings rest in and see shiny metal they need to be done.
If you want to refresh the whole front do lowers, uppers, inner/outer tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, and sway bar links.
The front end will feel brand new.
Rears are not as common. If you check the frame tabs where the bushings rest in and see shiny metal they need to be done.
#4
03-12-2018, 07:01 PM
You didn’t mention how many miles are on it.
I did the lowers on the front along with tie rods at first. After changing the upper front arms later, the suspension clunks finally are gone. I would do upper and lowers at the same time. The uppers are cheap. I think I paid $65 each for OEM.
I had a heck of a time getting the lower ball joint and hubs separated and ended up pulling the top ball joints away from the hub and removed the lower arms still attached to the hub. Two whacks with a hammer and they were loose. If you have a lift, you may have an easier time.
Check the sway bushings while you are at it. See if you can move the sway bar side to side (slide through the bushing).
If you are paying for labor as well as parts, it will add up quickly, but should drive like new!
I did the lowers on the front along with tie rods at first. After changing the upper front arms later, the suspension clunks finally are gone. I would do upper and lowers at the same time. The uppers are cheap. I think I paid $65 each for OEM.
I had a heck of a time getting the lower ball joint and hubs separated and ended up pulling the top ball joints away from the hub and removed the lower arms still attached to the hub. Two whacks with a hammer and they were loose. If you have a lift, you may have an easier time.
Check the sway bushings while you are at it. See if you can move the sway bar side to side (slide through the bushing).
If you are paying for labor as well as parts, it will add up quickly, but should drive like new!
#5
03-12-2018, 07:36 PM
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 14
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You didn’t mention how many miles are on it.
I did the lowers on the front along with tie rods at first. After changing the upper front arms later, the suspension clunks finally are gone. I would do upper and lowers at the same time. The uppers are cheap. I think I paid $65 each for OEM.
I had a heck of a time getting the lower ball joint and hubs separated and ended up pulling the top ball joints away from the hub and removed the lower arms still attached to the hub. Two whacks with a hammer and they were loose. If you have a lift, you may have an easier time.
Check the sway bushings while you are at it. See if you can move the sway bar side to side (slide through the bushing).
If you are paying for labor as well as parts, it will add up quickly, but should drive like new!
I did the lowers on the front along with tie rods at first. After changing the upper front arms later, the suspension clunks finally are gone. I would do upper and lowers at the same time. The uppers are cheap. I think I paid $65 each for OEM.
I had a heck of a time getting the lower ball joint and hubs separated and ended up pulling the top ball joints away from the hub and removed the lower arms still attached to the hub. Two whacks with a hammer and they were loose. If you have a lift, you may have an easier time.
Check the sway bushings while you are at it. See if you can move the sway bar side to side (slide through the bushing).
If you are paying for labor as well as parts, it will add up quickly, but should drive like new!
#6
03-12-2018, 08:38 PM
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