Front End Dropping - Help Diagnosing
I noticed my 2006 LR3 dropped to access height overnight the past couple nights. Removed F26 and left a door open, so no overnight leveling, put the vehicle in off-road height, and took before and after measurements overnight (about 12 hours apart as I'm writing and from center of wheel to wheel well)
The rear end was static (good news!), but the front had dropped. Front Left from 20" to 18.5" and Front Right from 19 5/8" to 16.25". I was kind of hoping for a valve block issue because I've been in there before and comfortable with checking the hoses/connection and the replacement procedure...although I am curious about aftermarket v. OEM if I have to go this route and, if aftermarket, is there a specific brand anyone has had a good experience with. That said, the FR definitely dropped more that the FL and now I'm wondering if I don't have a strut/airbag issue on the FR corner.
What do you recommend for next step in diagnosis...wait longer? If one corner strut was leaking, would that bring down its partner in the front too? Could I have multiple problems? I do have a GAP tool, but don't really know how I'd use it in this situation?
Any tips you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
The rear end was static (good news!), but the front had dropped. Front Left from 20" to 18.5" and Front Right from 19 5/8" to 16.25". I was kind of hoping for a valve block issue because I've been in there before and comfortable with checking the hoses/connection and the replacement procedure...although I am curious about aftermarket v. OEM if I have to go this route and, if aftermarket, is there a specific brand anyone has had a good experience with. That said, the FR definitely dropped more that the FL and now I'm wondering if I don't have a strut/airbag issue on the FR corner.
What do you recommend for next step in diagnosis...wait longer? If one corner strut was leaking, would that bring down its partner in the front too? Could I have multiple problems? I do have a GAP tool, but don't really know how I'd use it in this situation?
Any tips you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
If you have an OEM valve block, rebuild it with a $20 kit (has orings for all 3 blocks). If you have an aftermarket valve block don’t think of rebuilding it and buy an OEM. You can buy new or used. I bought a used block and rebuilt it, I was all in under $50.
Once that’s done and installed repeat your overnight droop test. You may get away without replacing air bags… the front bags wear out much faster than the rear, they have maybe 1/3 or less of the service life. I think it’s because of all the heat coming off the engine wears out the rubber more quickly, many people still have original rear bags. Eventually they should all be replaced since the dampers aren’t as effective after 15+ years.
Once that’s done and installed repeat your overnight droop test. You may get away without replacing air bags… the front bags wear out much faster than the rear, they have maybe 1/3 or less of the service life. I think it’s because of all the heat coming off the engine wears out the rubber more quickly, many people still have original rear bags. Eventually they should all be replaced since the dampers aren’t as effective after 15+ years.
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