My truck was sitting lower on the right side about 3/4 of an inch. Abran, thanks again, used his autologic tool to balance it out. All was fine for about a week. The truck without any modifications or changes now sits about 3/4" to 1" lower on the left side. The right side seems to be the same, it looks like the left side has dropped a bit. Any ideas on what is going on? As far as I know, there hasn't been a reset, battery disconnect or any other modification that would make the change. Ideas? I have never seen this happen before. thanks Phil

2005 LR3
2006 Range Rover Sport

 

Here is what I'd do:

1. Check for leaks in the EAS using the soapy-water trick.
2. If no leaks, check the calibration using some kind of electronic tool, preferably an IIDTool.
3. If needed, calibrate it.

 

no leaks. It maintains the height. We will recalibrate it. Abran did that before for me, but for some reason, the left side dropped after the calibration......odd. Phil

 

It's never going to be a leak issue if it's sitting lower on one side versus another. The computer commands a certain target height vs. height sensor. If it cannot attain that height, it will either lower to access mode and throw a crap ton of codes, or possibly limit you to normal height only, again with a ton of codes and error messages. Either way if one side is lower, it'll dump all the air it has to correct the issue - if it SEES the issue (ie. read on...)

If it's seemingly happy (no codes, lights etc) but totally uneven or unlevel, it's a height sensor or calibration problem.

The computer has achieved a match on target vs. actual height, but the calibration is incorrect. The procedure for calibration is kinda a PITA and requires special blocks. I've never seen a vehicle that actually required a full / fresh re-calibration though.

Sounds like something else caused the height variation, perhaps the vehicle didn't correct itself yet, and when he adjusted it, whatever his +/- value was, was simply tacked onto the baseline (correct) value, thus now the other side is too low.

You really need a live data scanner (LR-specific) to read the target and actual height sensor readings, testbook or IDII will let you input the correct values again, as your friend did.

He should just reset it for now. Close all doors, cycle ignition a few times - let it settle in. If it's not level, then make it level and re-check it.

 

I don't find doing a calibration all that difficult. It is a little tedious in as much as you have to measure heights and make adjustments but with an IIDTool and GAP's new spreadsheet that guides you along, I wouldn't call it a "PITA" at all. Estoril, were you using the IIDTool or some other method?

 

The only factor that I see could have affected the calibration was that we did it in his driveway at an angle, but we didn't have many options as his street was not any flatter.

If Phil can get it to my shop we have a level floor in the bay and I believe we can get it right.

I have had an occurrence where after a long weekend of wheeling I cam back and my right side was about an inch lower. After doing a manual calibration on that side, all was good and has been for 4 months at least.

 

Abran is the best! Thanks for the responses. Abran and I will get on this and figure it out and then post the results. All the best. Phil

 

I was referring to the actual LR workshop procedures using the physical calibration blocks and testbook, but I've also helped my indy a few times using the actual raw values in mm adjustment. As I said, it's usually just masking another issue, and if it's low on one side, simply "changing the number" to raise it has never helped personally.

Anyways, okay tedious not PITA.

Still - if it was calibrated before, what happened to cause one side or corner to lose its software-programmed value? The answer should be NADDA. Something specific to that side; sensor, load, etc is more likely to have caused the issue IMHO.

 

Yeah that may have played some role in the issue, but when I said calibration I didn't just mean key in manual offset values till the car became level again.

There's a very specific LR calibration method for setting the frame-to-ground (or I guess frame-to-suspension/lower height sensor arm) to a pre-set physically-measured value the LR workshop calls for (or using dealer tool "blocks" for the frame) at all four corners - then using the displayed values on testbook as your baseline numbers. I probably botched that and totally over-simplified things, but that's essentially how it should be done.

Again as I said before, just pumping up values till you get your desired result can sometimes mask other issues.

One things for sure though... if the vehicle had otherwise been working perfectly fine with ZERO other changes (no new tires, battery, software updates, heavy loads inside, etc etc etc) I would NOT just manually force override / update the height values and walk away. There has to be some explanation for the change / shift - that's all I was trying to say before. I firmly believe that's why the "fix" didn't stick.

Cheers

edit: After re-reading your original post again, it really sounds like a complete four-corner calibration needs to be done. Even if it didn't need one before, it does now (unless you wrote down the exact mm values pre-adjustment the first time around). The computer will correct in totally bizarre ways - every action has an equal / opposite reaction type of thing. Plus diagnostically, it's highly unlikely that the opposing side randomly changed height a week later - I'd assume that it had to be due to the manual correction on the opposing side.