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Front hub bearing assembly question

  #1  
Old 10-17-2018, 03:14 PM
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Default Front hub bearing assembly question

I started this project today with confidence, and the 15mm bolts holding the back of the hub came off surprisingly easy. Now I’m having difficulty removing the bolt that threads onto the axle shaft and I’m at the point where I might just dremel it out. I’ve done just about everything including take a 3ft 1/2in pipe for leverage with my friend pressing the 1/2in drive in, but the nut just turns with the axle shaft and I don’t know what to do.

My question is if anyone has experienced this problem, and is the bolt included with the hub assembly. I bought the hub assembly from Land Rover and it comes with a bolt that looks like it uses a cotter pin and another bolt that looks like the axle bolt. Does anyone know what the cotter pin one is meant for? I thought the notch was to make sure that it stays in place and doesn’t have to be retourqued.
 

Last edited by LittleBruiser; 10-24-2018 at 09:08 PM.
  #2  
Old 10-17-2018, 04:48 PM
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Bolt that threads into the tie-rod? Not even sure what you mean by that as the tie-rod is in itself a threaded part with a tie-rod end on each end. The nuts are in place to lock the position once the proper thread depth is reach. Not sure how a tie-rod can affect a driveshaft though.

There is no axel bolt. A large nut attached to the axle shaft which is threaded. The nut has been updated, but the new nut will not even fit the older half-shaft.

Some pics would help.
 
  #3  
Old 10-18-2018, 04:04 AM
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If you talking about halfshafft 32 mm nut, than best way is to have wheel on the ground for resistance, otherwise it will turn as it is tight, usually around 350 Nm.You would have to open the front end of the nut as it is dimpled. I use a small punch tool for that.
 
  #4  
Old 10-18-2018, 10:07 AM
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Snap a couple of pics so we can better help
 
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Old 10-19-2018, 08:25 PM
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Why are you touching the tierod to replace a hub bearing ?
 
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Old 10-21-2018, 08:13 PM
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I did mine a few months go and never went near the tie-rods - there is no need. You need to remove the main hub nut as detailed by thorgal, remove the brake disk, remove the hub sensor and have a big hammer ready to persuade the hub to release itself.
 
  #7  
Old 10-21-2018, 08:28 PM
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I was thinking of trying the air hammer on it instead of the 3lb motivator. Just like I used to knock the cv free when I did the control arms
 
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Old 10-21-2018, 10:26 PM
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Air hammer with pointed tip in the recess of the axle end.
 
  #9  
Old 10-23-2018, 12:16 PM
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I have mine completely torn apart if you have a more specific question. I also don't know why you'd be taking the tie rod off unless you're replacing it. For the axle nut I used a Dewalt 1/2" 20v max impact gun. Took a while as it was froze on pretty good cuz of road salt, water and dirt. But if you really want to take the tie rod off, it does have a recessed end for a hex (can't remember the size). Use a box end wrench on the nut and hold the stem of the tie rod with a hex socket. I can post a pic if you need it.
 
  #10  
Old 10-24-2018, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ArmyRover
I was thinking of trying the air hammer on it instead of the 3lb motivator. Just like I used to knock the cv free when I did the control arms

I got the job don’t by propping a rod between two lugs on the hub and holding back while my friend used a heavy duty 1in driver and 5ft 1/2in pipe for leverage. A heavy duty air impact driver would have been better than my light duty one, but these are the breaks. After that it was smooth sailing
 

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