My 2006 LR3 keeps blowing the fuel pump fuse. I replaced my fuel pump just before my 10,000 journey to Alaska. I was only 425 miles from home and the fuel pump fuse blew and I can't seem to find the problem. I had to fly home and get my truck and trailer. A shop in Reno wanted $2800 to replace the fuel pump. After I balked at the price they drop the price to $1800 but I had already booked my plane ticket.

Any thoughts on what to look for before I drop the tank would be great.

 

Dropping the tank is pretty straight forward. I can do it with the truck in off-road height. And I have had to do it several time, now I can drop it in 15 minutes. I had some frustrating issues with mine, in the end it was not really the pump itself... I will make one note, if you do not know, the large metal shield is actually the fuel tank cradle, meaning the tank itself comes down with the shield.

Here is an issue I had with mine. While I was to having fuses pop, I had another saga. But if you have this same defect, then I could see why a fuse would keep popping.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...issues-105279/

edit: I will add that if you have the same issue as me, you *may* be able to drop the tank enough to pull the electrical connector then put a new fuse in and see what happens. If a fuse still pops, then I tend to think wiring issue. Also... did you try a new relay? Certain the correct rated fuse is being used?

 

I got the tank down and when I plug in the old fuel pump it still blows the fuse. when I hook my test light to 12v and touch the hot side of the fuse it lights up. but when I unplug just the pump it goes out. It doesn't matter what pump I plug in the old one or the new one. I recently had the A/C compressor replaced on my way home but I don't think there were any wires in that area to affect the fuel pump. There must be a wire shorting to the ground. I did swap some of the relays but I have the same result.

 

Short to ground does seem likely. Easy enough to test with a temporary new ground wire. And if I recall - and I could be wrong - the fuel pump ground actually heads back behind the tank nor forward with the rest of the fuel system wires.

 

It was just the new fuel pump that I put in about three months ago. I only replaced it because it was throwing a lean code. I bought what I thought was I high quality one but junk like everything else you get these days. Put the old one back in and good to go.

 

So the old pump was not the issues too as you mentioned? That is good. Also it sucks the new one is crap. I *think* had an issue with a new pump too. As you know, they come with the entire swirl pot. My issue appeared to be some sorta failed check valve at the bottom on the cheap swirl pot. Eventually my final solution was to swap the ENTIRE tank from a donor LR3, pump and all, to my truck. But I do want to revisit replacing the pump since the one I have now is long in both miles and life. So that got me looking at which pump is actually installed. The pump is Walbro, their TI Automotive line. Here is a pic. However my brief search did not bring up this exact pump as being available. I have not contacted them directly yet to see if I can source a proper and exact fit pump. In theory the pump only would be cheaper to replace.

 

Also, big favor. If you have a pump you can pull apart some pics would be great. I did not take any good ones of the inlet end and the top end with connections. In fact, there are no photos that I can find only of proper OEM pumps. If you can post some, that may be helpful to others too. In my searches, I did find this pump. But being from a euro market were fakes are huge issue, I am hesitant to buy one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/185525022477

 

I don’t have any photos of the original pump because I put it back in. The pump I took out is apart because I tested with taking it apart to clean the original one.