Gas pedal, strange behaviour!
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Gas pedal, strange behaviour!
Hi all! disco 3, TDV6
Havent driven the car for 3 days and its been around minus 4 every day! So I start the car and the gas-pedal feel really soft and no rev, I switch off and then On again and everything works fine
Gas-pedal is working fine!
What happened??? anybody?
thanks!
Havent driven the car for 3 days and its been around minus 4 every day! So I start the car and the gas-pedal feel really soft and no rev, I switch off and then On again and everything works fine
Gas-pedal is working fine!
What happened??? anybody?
thanks!
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 374
Likes: 93
From: Tip of the Mitt
Minus 4 celcius or freedom units?
Our LR3's have some very hungry electronic modules that need a healthy voltage to initialize properly, boot up if you will. That first cold start really draws on the battery and if the voltage isn't there you encounter all manner of squirrley operations. That second start takes a lot less power and this time the modules boot up properly and everything works fine
. I've seen this on my LR3 but the worst was a Mercedes ML320 when we lived in Alaska. That rig had a battery blanket, oil pan heater transmission heater and a circulating heater, we figured since it did come from Fairbanks where it gets -60F it needs all that. So, it gets to about 0F, wife starts the Merc and it's making wierd noises, no power steering or brakes and the DSC and ABS lights are blinking, she drives it back, I start it back up and everything is fine. We went through this a couple times before we figured out what was happening and plugged the Merc in a hour before starting and everything was fine.
I'm not saying this is "it" but that's where I would start. When it gets below about 10F here I hook up a battery tender to my LR3 and it's happy.
Our LR3's have some very hungry electronic modules that need a healthy voltage to initialize properly, boot up if you will. That first cold start really draws on the battery and if the voltage isn't there you encounter all manner of squirrley operations. That second start takes a lot less power and this time the modules boot up properly and everything works fine
. I've seen this on my LR3 but the worst was a Mercedes ML320 when we lived in Alaska. That rig had a battery blanket, oil pan heater transmission heater and a circulating heater, we figured since it did come from Fairbanks where it gets -60F it needs all that. So, it gets to about 0F, wife starts the Merc and it's making wierd noises, no power steering or brakes and the DSC and ABS lights are blinking, she drives it back, I start it back up and everything is fine. We went through this a couple times before we figured out what was happening and plugged the Merc in a hour before starting and everything was fine.
I'm not saying this is "it" but that's where I would start. When it gets below about 10F here I hook up a battery tender to my LR3 and it's happy.
Thread Starter
|
4wd Low
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Minus 4 celcius or freedom units?
Our LR3's have some very hungry electronic modules that need a healthy voltage to initialize properly, boot up if you will. That first cold start really draws on the battery and if the voltage isn't there you encounter all manner of squirrley operations. That second start takes a lot less power and this time the modules boot up properly and everything works fine
. I've seen this on my LR3 but the worst was a Mercedes ML320 when we lived in Alaska. That rig had a battery blanket, oil pan heater transmission heater and a circulating heater, we figured since it did come from Fairbanks where it gets -60F it needs all that. So, it gets to about 0F, wife starts the Merc and it's making wierd noises, no power steering or brakes and the DSC and ABS lights are blinking, she drives it back, I start it back up and everything is fine. We went through this a couple times before we figured out what was happening and plugged the Merc in a hour before starting and everything was fine.
I'm not saying this is "it" but that's where I would start. When it gets below about 10F here I hook up a battery tender to my LR3 and it's happy.
Our LR3's have some very hungry electronic modules that need a healthy voltage to initialize properly, boot up if you will. That first cold start really draws on the battery and if the voltage isn't there you encounter all manner of squirrley operations. That second start takes a lot less power and this time the modules boot up properly and everything works fine
. I've seen this on my LR3 but the worst was a Mercedes ML320 when we lived in Alaska. That rig had a battery blanket, oil pan heater transmission heater and a circulating heater, we figured since it did come from Fairbanks where it gets -60F it needs all that. So, it gets to about 0F, wife starts the Merc and it's making wierd noises, no power steering or brakes and the DSC and ABS lights are blinking, she drives it back, I start it back up and everything is fine. We went through this a couple times before we figured out what was happening and plugged the Merc in a hour before starting and everything was fine.
I'm not saying this is "it" but that's where I would start. When it gets below about 10F here I hook up a battery tender to my LR3 and it's happy.
all the best and thanks again!
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 374
Likes: 93
From: Tip of the Mitt
It's a good pplace ot start.
I have had a bad gas pedal too, but it still let my wife drive the vehicle, only lit up the CEL. In the petrol version, there are 2 sets of sensors in the pedal mechanism, and if they don't agreee there will be a DTC registered. On hers we found that the engine was more responsive with the "bad" pedal than the replacement, so we carried the replacement as a spare and left he old one. We don't have inspections here so it was fine.
Good news is that it's easy to swap, a couple of nuts and a connector IIRC. A 10 minute task.
I have had a bad gas pedal too, but it still let my wife drive the vehicle, only lit up the CEL. In the petrol version, there are 2 sets of sensors in the pedal mechanism, and if they don't agreee there will be a DTC registered. On hers we found that the engine was more responsive with the "bad" pedal than the replacement, so we carried the replacement as a spare and left he old one. We don't have inspections here so it was fine.
Good news is that it's easy to swap, a couple of nuts and a connector IIRC. A 10 minute task.
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