I left my Land Rover LR3 sit for about 11 months. I put a new battery in and started it. I have a bunch of lights on the dash. Here are the codes-
P173C-00(2F)
P0808-00(2F)
P173A-00(2F)
P0900-00(2F)

I cleared them with my gap IID tool tuned the vehivle off then turned it back on. The car returned to normal height. I drove it around for a few miles and it seemed fine. I went to start it up today and the lights were all back on the dash. The codes above are what came up on the scan tool. I tried clearing them but it wont return to normal like it did last time. Any help would greatly be appreciated.


Thanks in advance!

 

Codes aside, what is the vehicle doing, physically? What systems or functions are affected and how?

 

car was running good for a little then the faults came on and it lowered. I could get it to raise up when I did a reset on my IID but then it would revert back. Today I took it for a spin all was good then when I went to back in my driveway I went to put it in reverse. Not sure what happened but it just drifts like it’s in neutral. I tried manually shifting, turning it back off and on. All the lights are lit up again and now it won’t go into any gear. Slight grinding noise when I put it in park. My passenger floor is soaked. I’m assuming it was like that for awhile. I opened the glove box and pulled the pollen filter. It’s soaked.

I checked the positions with the IID. It shows like it in drive, or reverse but it won’t move.

PS when I say good it runs well but when in park idling the RPMs fluctuate slightly few hundred RPMs but it was doing that before I parked it.

 

Based on the water in the passenger floor area your general module is probably wet and so are all the splices in the passenger floor area. I would pull the module out (not fun) and pull the door sill trim and pull the carpet back and check the splices. For some really dumb reason Land Rover did exposed wire splices with just crimp ring connectors then wrapped in blue tape. These connections are far from water resistant and I spent hours cutting out corroded wire and using water resistant butt connectors on my current LR3 in the process of trying to fix HDC issues. In the end I had to take it to a Rover shop and they found a broken wire in the center console area that runs down to the driver steering column area.

To prevent future water ingress I would make sure your sunroof drain hose connection on the passenger side isn't broken. The general module has to come out to check/fix the hose on the passenger side. The hose on the driver side is much easier to check, lots of DIY info out there how to check both of these. I would also replace the windshield cowl trim. This is the only thing preventing water getting in the air intake for the HVAC blower on the passenger side and if it has any warping or cracks it lets water in.

In my first LR3 I was lucky and cleaning the connectors for the module and drying out the passenger carpet and wires fixed the electrical issues that started after the first heavy rain. I then fixed my broken sunroof drain while in there and it's been problem free, my friend bough it from me and has owned for almost 2 years now.

As for your transmission I would start by checking the fluid level.

 

Do I need to pull the seat to get the carpet back? Did you pull any trim pieces behind the door sill or just from the door sill towards the front? Reading your post… I definitely have corroded wires as I had standing water on the passenger floor. I’m really not looking forward to pulling the CJB. From what I read it’s a bear to get back in. If I don’t have visual corrosion or damage is it good or does it need to be sent to be tested? I’m not sure if my sunroof drain is leaking as my pollen filter is wet. Most say that comes in from the front cowl area. I will have to look at it again but it didn’t look warped.

Thanks,
Joe

 

No, if you take your time the seat can stay, you just need to pull/twist the trim just right but it will come out with the seat still in the car. I also removed all the lower trim and glove box in my truck, this needs to come out anyways to get the CJB out. One trick to make it easier is you can cut some plastic off of I think it was the fan, not 100% sure as it was a while ago when I last had mine out but there is some non important plastic that can be cut/broken off that will give you more room for the CJB.