I'm assuming you have the V6. Does it perhaps bolt up differently that makes it a bit less of a PITA to drop the pan on the tranny?

 

I have done the transmission service minus the mechatronics selonoids without removing the crossmember and the exhaust, and therefore not raising the engine. I dropped the plastic pan and cut the filter tube to fully remove the plastic pan.

Replaced the plastic pan with a steel pan from a 2006 BMW X5 with the 4.4l engine. I also bought the shorter screws, the separate filter, pan gasket, connector sleeve, and the mechatronics sleeves.

I have a 2007 LR3 HSE V8.

The hardest part is refilling with the engine running, a hot exhaust and laying on the garage floor.

 

Cool, do you links to the parts you bought?

Thanks

 

D2 on parts

 

Here is what I bought:

From FCP Euro:
ZF Lifeguard 6 Auto Trans Fluid (1 Liter) - S67109025301 - need at least 6
BMW Oil Pan - Genuine BMW 24117571202
BMW Auto Trans Filter (GA6HP26Z) - Meyle 24117543550
BMW Auto Trans Oil Pan Gasket (X5) - Meyle 24117543484
BMW Auto Trans Valve Body Sealing Sleeve - ZF 24347588725

From The CTSC:
0736 010 347 01 Oil Pan Screw - Steel - Aluminum Oil Pan: quantity 21
0501 219 952 01 Mechatronic Seal Adapter 6HP26 & 6HP28 & 6HP32
slk_26_28_32 Sealing sleeve kit 6HP26/28/32
0501 216 272 01 Sealing sleeve

Accidentally ordered a body (connector) sealing sleeve from each place.

The steel transmission oil pan for the BMW X5 had a drain and a fill plug and is pricey compared to the Ford version that does not have the drain plug. I went with the X5 version as the drain plugs helps minimize the mess when doing the next oil/filter change on my garage.

Also note that the gasket and filter are Meyle (inexpensive parts) and not BMW, or Land Rover, or FelPro. The "better" brands can cost anywere from 3 to 5 times more.

There is a company called Eriksson that has a metal pan kit without drain for about $90 shipped. I suspect it uses Ford's parts. Others have used successfully on the RR and LR3.

A lot of this info is already out there and it did take me a while to collect. Hopefully this helps others.

On the next thread I will describe my recipe.

 

Here is my recipe:

- Remove drain plug and drain transmission oil
- As published by others, remove plastic oil pan screws
- As published by others, lower pan and cut sump tube with a hacksaw blade. 18T worked well. Not in tools pictures.
- Turn pan 90 degrees and remove. I don't remember direction of rotation. But one way works and the other does not.
- Disconnect mechatronics connector.Follow ZF instructions.
- Remove connector sleeve. Follow ZF instructions.
- Remove mechatronic
- Remove mechatronics seal adapter and sealing sleeves (4)
- Install new mechatronics seal adapter and sealing sleeves (4)
- Service mechatronics if desired. I did not do this.
- Mount mechatronics. Follow installation instructions published by ZF. Use recommended pattern and torque.
- Install new connector sleeve. I used the 5 gallon paint mixing paddle shown in the picture to help push the connector sleeve in place. Can only push on top and bottom of connector with the mixing paddle due to space constraints. Notice orientation tab and go when pushing. A 27mm socket with CV joint adapter and a long extension (not pictured) also helps installing the connector sleeve. Follow ZF instructions.
- Install new filter. Don't forget to remove the protective cap.
- Remove the filler plug plastic cap from the steel transmission pan. (BMW X5 version)
- Insert pan and gasket in pan's original plastic bag. Make sure the gasket and pan are properly aligned. Cut excess of bag on opening side.
- Install pan with gasket in bag 90 degrees off the transmission, then rotate in place. Ensure bag opening is facing the transfer case mount.
- Partially pull bag to expose a screw hole on the transfer case side and install a couple of screws. Do not tighten.
- Pull bag half way and install another couple of screws. Do not tighten.
- Pull bag all the way and install the rest of the screws. Do not tighten.
- At this point the gasket should be all lined up.
- Use ZF instructions to finish installing the transmission oil pan. Use recommended pattern and torque. To torque the screws under the cross members, I used the low profile torx attached to the closed end of the 13mm ratcheting wrench then attach a 1/2" male to 3/8" female adapter to the open side and then the torque wrench. Ensure to keep the wrench and the torque wrench at 90 degrees at all times to ensure the proper torque is applied; otherwise a torque factor will have to be calculated.
- Fill the transmission through the side fill hole per the ZF instructions. During the fill procedure it is required to turn on the A/C. Unfortunately, the A/C drain is almost over the transmission, therefore, while you are trying to keep an eye on the transmission oil stream coming out of the fill hole (part of the filling process), you will have a small water stream coming down from the edges (left and right) of the transmission pan. Don't confuse this water with an oil leak.
- When done filling the transmission, ensure to clean the exhaust and the transfer case cross member to remove all of the oil collected in and on it. The inside of the cross member is accessible from both sides. This will help trouble shoot your new installation for oil leaks should any be present.

I reused the fill plug, however, it is recommended that a new plug is installed. If I had realized it earlier I would have replaced it.

 

Awesome!

 

I just did a total from both places, comes to $400 without shipping. In case anyone was wondering.

 

Where did you buy the low profile torx

 

Amazon. I'm on my phone so can't link it.

Search-

E-Z Red T1000 Super Low Profile Torx Bit Set