Jacking locations
Mudding
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 179
Likes: 19
From: Mackenzie BC Canada
Awesome addition to HiLift
Hey folks,
This is a great addition to my garage and recovery gear. It allows you to lift the vehicle by the wheel. Use blocking under the control arms and the tire is off the ground, ready to be changed in under five minutes. Of course, the vehicle should also be supported by a proper stand under the frame as well.
ALWAYS follow safe lifting and support procedures.
Happy wrenching!
Hi-Lift Lift-Mate (LM-100) - lift vehicle wheel directly from the wheel | Hi Lift Jack Company
This is a great addition to my garage and recovery gear. It allows you to lift the vehicle by the wheel. Use blocking under the control arms and the tire is off the ground, ready to be changed in under five minutes. Of course, the vehicle should also be supported by a proper stand under the frame as well.
ALWAYS follow safe lifting and support procedures.
Happy wrenching!
Hi-Lift Lift-Mate (LM-100) - lift vehicle wheel directly from the wheel | Hi Lift Jack Company
Mudding
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 179
Likes: 19
From: Mackenzie BC Canada
For TRUE offroad use, the hi-lift style jacks are #1. They ARE dangerous and you really need to pay attention to how you use them, for sure. Generally, I will use them on the rock rails to lift a truck up. In some that I've built, I'll weld on a couple of channels that will act as a buffer for the jack so that it doesn't shoot out.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=lift+...ed=0CAYQ_AUoAQ
But also include you lift points into your bumpers/rock rails.
Have fun wheelin, I DO.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 363
Likes: 26
From: Northeastern, CT
Are those of any use other than to lift the truck out of a rut to fill in the earth under it? Generally, we'll just have someone else give you a tug out if you are that stuck.
Dave
Dave
Mudding
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 179
Likes: 19
From: Mackenzie BC Canada
Apparently I decided to spam the LiftMate posts. I'm thinking that I meant to post the last one in another thread while I had two windows open.
Anyway, to answer the question: one could possibly change a flat with this set up IF there was blocking (available or carried in the vehicle) that could be used to block under the suspension while the jack was removed and the tire was changed.
Also, if there is no other vehicle to pull with or puling the stuck vehicle would cause damage to the body panels or underbody (especially the suspension compressor) then placing items under the tires to gain clearance would be a great asset.
I have yet to put my Hi-Lift to some real testing in the bush, but knowing that it is so versatile (also used as a hand winch) is reassuring. One tool to lift the vehicle to gain clearance, change a tire, and "winch" means I think it is worth taking along. The accessories make it even more versatile.
But that is my opinion, and we are all entitled to one. If it gets me out of a jam just once, I will consider it having paid for itself.
Anyway, to answer the question: one could possibly change a flat with this set up IF there was blocking (available or carried in the vehicle) that could be used to block under the suspension while the jack was removed and the tire was changed.
Also, if there is no other vehicle to pull with or puling the stuck vehicle would cause damage to the body panels or underbody (especially the suspension compressor) then placing items under the tires to gain clearance would be a great asset.
I have yet to put my Hi-Lift to some real testing in the bush, but knowing that it is so versatile (also used as a hand winch) is reassuring. One tool to lift the vehicle to gain clearance, change a tire, and "winch" means I think it is worth taking along. The accessories make it even more versatile.
But that is my opinion, and we are all entitled to one. If it gets me out of a jam just once, I will consider it having paid for itself.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 346
Likes: 23
Thank you all for your comments. My first experience jacking up the truck to change a wheel turned into a 2 hour job and hence my seeking comments. I started with a hydraulic jack 4 ton capacity and as per the LR instructions I raised the vehicle to off-road height then put the jack plus a block of wood under the side rail. With the jack at maximum height the wheel was still on the ground. Decided to use the scissor lift jack that came with the vehicle and this has a pin to locate into the side rail. It lifted the vehicle but as mentioned above the suspension sure does drop and jack was almost at maximum. For coil suspension LR recommend jacking at the lower control arm and you can see there are holes in the control arms to locate the OE supplied scissor jack. I agree that the rear control arms do not seem to be a safe location but the hole into which the jack fits on the control arms might be sufficient security.... but I have not tried it yet. Of great concern to me is the difficulty changing a wheel in off-road conditions. I have heard comments that the OE jack will not lift high enough from the side rail so people revert to dig a hole under the wheel being changed so that it can be dragged out. Jacking the lower control arm would easily provide the lift required and prevent the excessive suspension droop. Would be great if someone had tried this in off-road situation.
Mudding
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 163
Likes: 25
One of the first things I did when I got my 08 LR3 was read the owners manual to find out how to properly jack up the car as I did not want to damage anything by assuming certain places were safe to place a jack. The manual clearly shows the hole in the frame where the scissors jack goes. I recently used the scissors jack to lift a wheel off the ground without any issue. It is pretty precarious though so I would recommend a jack stand to add stability.
I have a LiftMate for my highlift and it works surprisingly well. I think you could put a jackstand or hydraulic jack under the frame once high enough to then remove the highlift. I have the setup more to allow the insertion of traction boards under a wheel. I also have a hydraulic jack with a built-in jack stand that was recommended in another post. Have not tried that yet. Lastly, this year I am adding Land Rover Passion rock sliders which allow you to use an adaptor with your highlift to jack up the car. With 4 jacking options I should be good.
I have a LiftMate for my highlift and it works surprisingly well. I think you could put a jackstand or hydraulic jack under the frame once high enough to then remove the highlift. I have the setup more to allow the insertion of traction boards under a wheel. I also have a hydraulic jack with a built-in jack stand that was recommended in another post. Have not tried that yet. Lastly, this year I am adding Land Rover Passion rock sliders which allow you to use an adaptor with your highlift to jack up the car. With 4 jacking options I should be good.
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