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Picked up the car, was running, started with no problems.
had parking brake fault, looks like module is dead, nothing happens when press the button.
also High and Low gear button didn't work, always stuck on High.
After few days having the car it start raining, notice carpets wet. found lots rust under drivers side.
decided to strip interior to fix floor board, disconnect grounds on driver footwell and B pillar to be able to lift wire loom and fix rust.
second day was raining, connect all grounds, start the car no problem and pull inside garage.
work on the rust and start car again no problem pull car out.
had the battery of for about a week while fixed rust and start looking at the wiring on both sides, found a couple splices corroded and fixed them.
Connect battery try to start, nothing.
bunch a codes:
- Lost communication with immobilizer
- Lost communication parking control module
- lost communication instrument cluster
what I did:
- Replaced parking brake switch
- checked all grounds that I disconnect and reconnect on the B pillars
-clean transfer case module (some corrosion there)
-check battery ground cable (removed and clean connections)
- hard reset
Connected battery again, key on the ignition, cluster showed “key on the ignition” message and the car started!!
No more "Lost communication with immobilizer system"
still other faults when scanning Parking brake module and transfer case module, but no more faults when scanning transmission module.
After few minutes tried to strart and nothing!! again Lost communication Immobilizer, emergency lights blinking and doors cycling.
after a bit started again!!!!
Thought about replace battery since I didn't new how old It was and voltage was low, after few days I came with new battery and it doesn't start again!!!
Same immobilizer fault, suspension dropped, HDC Fault transmission Fault on cluster.
If it is a Land Rover key AND if you ever get it started, just leave it running for some time with the key in the ignition. It will charge it up. If it is not a Land Rover key, it may or may not have a rechargable battery in the key fob and this procedure may or may not work.
If it is not an OEM key you have two choices.
1. Tear the key apart and replace the battery.
2. Buy a knock off key from the internet and program it to your car ( do you have a diagnostic tool that can program keys?) If you intend to keep this beast and work on it yourself, you NEED one.
I would also have the alternator checked, the power cable to the starter, and do a resistance check on the ground cable for the battery.
If it is a Land Rover key AND if you ever get it started, just leave it running for some time with the key in the ignition. It will charge it up. If it is not a Land Rover key, it may or may not have a rechargable battery in the key fob and this procedure may or may not work.
If it is not an OEM key you have two choices.
1. Tear the key apart and replace the battery.
2. Buy a knock off key from the internet and program it to your car ( do you have a diagnostic tool that can program keys?) If you intend to keep this beast and work on it yourself, you NEED one.
I would also have the alternator checked, the power cable to the starter, and do a resistance check on the ground cable for the battery.
OR it could just be the key.
Hope this helps some
Jeff
thank you for reply.
starter cranks the car strong if I jump the relay. So I guess isn’t a problem. Alternator must be good as well because when car started voltage was 14.25.
how much should be resistance on ground cable? (Sorry I don’t understand much about this topic) and
Its the original Land Rover key, and now I found the second key inside a back box/ module under over pedals. I guess previous owner istalled some kind of car remote starter.
is it a mystery because car already started two times after I was working on it.
now the codes I’m getting is Immobilizer, car does not recognize key on ignition, red light is always blinking on cluster. And I’m getting lost communication with instrument cluster.
now I’m thing maybe cluster gone bad? It was working before but probably bad luck?
The key fob battery has zero to do with starting, it is for remote button functions only. A fob with a missing battery will still start the vehicle it is programmed for.
If it had/has a remote start. I bet that is the issue. You may have some wiring work to do.
The key fob battery has zero to do with starting, it is for remote button functions only. A fob with a missing battery will still start the vehicle it is programmed for.
If it had/has a remote start. I bet that is the issue. You may have some wiring work to do.
I’m thinking about that to.. I disconnect the battery for so long it might messed with the aftermarket remote starter module. Now the plan is try to remove it and go back to original and see if that helps car start
I had to reset my steering angle with the gap tool. truck was running perfect night before. I tried to start it and all the warning lights hazard lights went off all types of malfunctions. I checked all the customary crap and none helped. Finally saw a thread talking about steering angle. Low and behold. reset steering angle to zero with gap tool and started right up. Mind you turning the steering wheel so your tires are straight and steering wheel with no power is not easy. lol love/hate relationship with this damn truck