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Less than 2 weeks, first problem

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  #31  
Old 03-02-2016, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by illbuildit
Definitely going to check that site, and the car. I appreciate all the feedback.
Any time! Hurry up though, the suspense is killing me!
 
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  #32  
Old 03-02-2016, 03:24 PM
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Ha! Definitely we're on it.
I know too that with a vehicle like this, not every time is someone going to say "oh easy just snap the seatbelt three times and you're good!" Although, it wouldn't surprise me to hear a response like that
 
  #33  
Old 03-02-2016, 03:31 PM
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FWIW the PO of mine said something about a problem he had with killing batteries. It ended up being the wiring loom itself causing the problem, replaced and everything was good.

I will see if I can find the service record entry for that one.
 
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  #34  
Old 03-02-2016, 03:40 PM
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Yeah there have been a couple stories of the alternator failing and actually shorting out (a couple people report seeing smoke) or melting. However, would be strange if that did happen and it didn't throw any sort of codes or warnings.
 
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  #35  
Old 03-02-2016, 04:07 PM
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I also vote for the major power cable short and agree that other circuit problems would blow fuses.




An old trick to test for the age old problem of dead battery or dead alternator was to start engine and remove the battery cable.


If the kept running, the alternator was good.
If the engine died, alternator bad.


That was from way back in auto shop in high school.
I think I would be a little nervous to do that to these computers on wheels that pass for cars today.
 
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  #36  
Old 03-02-2016, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by djkronik57
Yeah there have been a couple stories of the alternator failing and actually shorting out (a couple people report seeing smoke) or melting. However, would be strange if that did happen and it didn't throw any sort of codes or warnings.
It seems to happen when the vehicle is off though (after recently being driven)..if that is indeed what happened here. Maybe once it goes bad, the system is able to short out only once the alternator stops feeding current into rectifier (ie after engine shut off) so you wouldn't notice it while driving.

Hm, it probably can't be a complete direct short, or the charge wire would definitely just melt or alt. internals would catch fire. Still enough to discharge very fast and generate battery heat.

In the disco.uk thread a guy said once he swapped batteries and did get it started, it did indeed smoke haha.
 
  #37  
Old 03-02-2016, 04:28 PM
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Here's what happened here....
Car Sat for 24 hrs after no problems. Started and driven for no more than two minutes. Five minutes later, no power. Hour and a half later, I get home, battery is hot and corrosion on negative cable that looked like it had been going on a short while. Battery tested good, put in another, and arced hard enough to weld to the terminal pretty good. Yes, I hooked it up right. Unlike the guy at the dealership almost couldn't believe because he does nothing wrong. Now, I'm afraid to even put a battery in it because something major might burn up if it hasn't already since it was over an hour hooked up and getting hot already
 
  #38  
Old 03-02-2016, 08:33 PM
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OK, if you're getting a major arc when connecting battery cables something is wrong.

First, and I'm not trying to sound silly, but you're sure you didn't get anything mixed up in the wiring? Double check just to be sure. I know it sounds simple but everybody makes stupid mistakes from time to time. Later I'll tell you about the time in high school where I blew up a battery by shorting it....(I figure the statute of limitations has long since run out on that one)

If you're 100% sure you didn't get anything crossed on the wiring you can try using a meter to see how much current you're pulling when connecting the battery, but most meters only read to 20 amps DC so if it's actually welding things you're probably 10x that. You can still try it and see - set the meter to the highest reading and give it a go. worst case you'll pop the fuse in the meter.

Otherwise, you have a major short somewhere. It shoudn't be too hard to find since it's got to be 'early' in the system to handle that much current. Start by following separating the two positive cables and try connecting them one at a time to see which has the high current draw. Then follow that cable and see what it leads to. That should get you started at least.
 
  #39  
Old 03-02-2016, 09:02 PM
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100% positive I hooked it up right. I've always worked on my own vehicles and have really good habits. But like I told the manager at the dealership (who suggested the same, in an arrogant way), there was a problem before I took the other battery out. Literally the only thing I have opened the hood for before this was to check fluids and look around a little, twice. Didn't move anything around at all.

Just got home because I had to pick my wife up from work and the car is in the driveway and its raining. I'll probably get up early and start looking around and try the things you guys have brought up. I just hope something didn't get burned up before I got to it to pull the battery out.
 
  #40  
Old 03-02-2016, 09:52 PM
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Yeah, some other stuff has been mentioned since the posts earlier - but from the clues so far I'm pretty well narrowed down to the rectifier (internal to the alternator.) Or starter 4ga wire.

I think in the battery junction box there's a nut that holds the large gauge wire from the alternator. Double check first, but if you leave the wire FROM the battery and disconnect the large wire to the alternator, you should be able to reconnect the battery without an arc. If so, you're done. (I think thats what disco.co.uk guy did). You could also attempt to start vehicle, but wouldn't do much other than a ton of warnings / dash lights - should start tho. New alternator time.
 
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