I'm looking to either replace the entire front LCA (left/right) or just replacing the bushings. Obviously since I have to remove the LCA to do either job, price is more of a factor than time. But my question is about tools:

'09 LR3; 65k

1) is a special press tool needed for the LCA bushings or can a off-the-shelf rental (Advanced Auto/Auto Zone/etc) be used?
2) I hear the bolts should be replaced, anyone have a good link/site for ordering the replacement bolts?

Thanks in advance.

 

Bolts and eccentric washers should be changed, P/Ns are
Bolts: RDI000034
Washers: RYF000203
There are specific press tools that center inside the bushings, a generic press tool can work, but if not perfectly centered, you run the risk of stretching the bushing sleeve, which will allow it to move inside the control arm. Also, the rearward bushings are fluid filled, and if not pressed in properly, can leak prematurely.

 

Thanks roverguy7, excellent info!

One question I forgot to ask was regarding the "newer model/design LCA". If I have a '09 would I still have the older design? And how significant of an improvement is the new design? Looks like BPUtah sells the newer design Front LCA.

 

The control arm itself is not redesigned. The bushings, and ball joint, were. So each time the bushings were updated, the control arm itself was updated as well, since it then had the new bushings.
This said, I prefer to replace the entire arm, as opposed to the bushings, even including the ball joint. This is because I have seen many that the bushing sleeve will stretch, and cause early failure of the bushings. I get paid on labor, not parts, and personally make more to do the bushings, and this is still my recommendation.

 

There was mention of the rear bushings of the front control arm being "gel" filled. How much should they move when trying to move them yourself? With mine jacked up, I can move it somewhat but for the most part it's still stiff....certainly no clunking going on.

It's on an '09 with 27k miles in which I am trying to isolate a vibration issue.


Thanks,


Rob

 

There is play, even when brand new. If it's not clunking, you're probably still ok. Generally these won't cause a vibration, and when it does, it is due to them failing to the point that the alignment is changed, which ultimitly causes the vibration.

Can you describe the vibration some, maybe start a new thread?

 

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the reply. I'll start a new thread so I don't interrupt the flow of this one.


Rob

 

OK, using a Harbor Freight 12T shop press and I can't seem to figure out an orientation that will allow me to press out the old LCA bushings. Unless I mistaken you have to press the both bushings from the inner portion of wishbone...therefore the the other bushing end of the wishbone is obstructed by the press itself.

Anyone have a recommended way of getting this accomplished. I know I've read in this thread several statement like "get someone with a press", but I'm clearly not see how to get this done.

Thanks in advance!

 

The rearward, larger bushing needs to have the flanges removed before you can press it out, you press it out towards the center. Before you do, take note of the orientation of the bushing, and also the depth it is installed now, you will want to match that with the new bushing, assuming it hasn't shifted in the arm, but is it has, new bushings would not be the correct repair, but that's not terribly common.

 

thanks! Got the rear bushing out. Any suggestions for the foward (front) bushing? Is there any negative pressing outward against the wishbone itself? Shouldn't the forward bushing be the path of least resistance?