Oh look, a tire thread! My brain is scrambled from three weeks of reading, calling and trying to get the very tire I want. A Toyo AT3 at 285/60/18 - not happening. And 265/65/18 would be ideal, but its not made by Toyo or Firestone in a proper load rating. This brings me to one last option if I want new shoes on my 2006 LR3. Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo 3 - LT (e-rated) - BUT there is just one size that will fit, 275/65/18. At 32.1" nominal, its past the 31.5" ideal sizing and means with the stock underbody spare mount location it will be a spit and push fitment.

There seems to be some mixed info on this size but not much on this actual tire. As we know, every tire is not the same even if spec'd the same. For example, my buddy runs this tire with Patagonia Milestar muds and he had to run 30mm wheel spacers or there was major rubbing. But, it's a mud tire and those side lugs are pretty aggressive. (he loves that tire by the way)

Since I trust the members here more than most places, is anyone here specifically running Bridgestone Revos in this size? And are wheel spacers required? I prefer not to run spacers although they would compensate for the track-in by being lifted 1.5". And on that note, I am not terribly concerned about a bottom out issue with the EAS since its so easy to resolve that on trail with a tire compressor and I do plan on strut spacers anyway. My concern with this size is more related to modifications of the rear heating lines or things like that. Well liners I can heat and form and the horns on my 2006 are bolted on, so can remove and modify.

Now these threads sometime go into tangents of "well go with this size or try this tire". Not going to happened for a few reasons. First, they are being purchased though Tires Plus so I am limited to what they sell. And right now the Toyos are so backed up on production it will be many, many months before I can get them. I actually contacted them directly. As for sizes, I need XL or at least h-rated. SL will not hold up the best when aired down and I take the truck places where I dont want to worry too much about tie being easy damaged. Not to mention SL rated tires generally won't hold up to the pressures. If I could go SL, it opens a TON of options. Sadly for durability and load, I am very limited.

 

Well I guess I can answer this one on my own. In short, not much to worry about at all. I did not move my coolant lines. Pics:

Truck is at access height, so a touch low. Substantial change from the 245/55/19 I was running before the swap. Still have those since this was also a wheel change.



I did move the height sensor harness on the front driver wheel well by pulling it up to the support for the upper control arm. Not hard to do and apparently not necessary from what I can tell. And you can see here, with tire turned full to passenger (had a buddy hold wheel while I took pic) there is plenty of room to spare. Also room to spare at the upper knuckle/arm. I don't have a pic, but there was no possibility of rubbing against the back of the wheel at the frame. So like I said, moving the harness was probably not needed with this tire. A mud tire of the same size? I think one wold have too.




At the rear is where I had rubbing but only when on the stop and it was in the upper parts of the liner and very minimal. Certainly nothing that would prevent driving. I even drive it back and forth and could not tell where it rubbing, just head a little squeaking. First pic below is driver side at the small bump in the forward part of the liner. I think some deform this in and flatten down the metal fin behind it. This pic is at access height and when slammed there was not rubbing here.




These next two pics are the are of concern, the passenger side rear wheel at the coolant lines. At access height I can easily get my hand between the lines/metal fin and the tire. No risk of rubbing. On stops, its really close and I think this is where there would be an issue with rubbing. In the pic, no liner is installed yet and the gap is only a liner or two thick. So its not much. So I took the liner and used a heat gun to flatten/push in as best I could before installing. If there is rubbing here, it will be with the liner and not the metal fin or cooling lines themselves. So maybe during some extreme articulation I will get liner rubbing, but I am not worried and will keep an eye on it to see what happens.







So in conclusion, I had no big issues at all and I know this particular size is less commonly used on the LR3. But knowing they work can open up options for some. These particular Revo tires are not noisy at all and ride incredibly well for an e-rated tire. I think an increase of 27% is what is helping me the most though with ride comfort. The specification for this tire is 32.1" by 10.8" wide. I am not using spacers and at this time I see no need for strut spacers. I do have a GAP lift of exactly 1.5" done during a full factory suspension replacement, so all bushings are "homed" to the proper lifted height. I do feel that some who experience rubbing issues have worm suspension which can change the geometry.

 

Update: I am seeing very slight rubbing on the liners up front. The front inner most edge and a little at the very top center - which surprised me. Nothing significant at all. As for performance, they seem to be doing well. They certainly are noisier than the Coopers I had, but still quieter then expected. So I am happy thus far. I actually may swap back to my regular tires for a while to help save miles on these.

 

Would Johnson rods helps as I don't have a Gap tool?

 

Yes, Johnson rods trick the suspension making it raise higher depending on what size rods you buy. You do lose the ability to lower it as far as before (the lift applies to all modes). The rods won't help you if you end up on your bumpstops.

 

No, Johnson rods trick the sensors they do not change the mechanical limits of the physical suspension.

 

I'm a little confused, I mentioned it tricked the sensors. I did word the latter half poorly. What I meant by it is that because the sensors are tricked, it believes you're in access height, but your actually 1.5" (or whatever size rods you chose) higher than that. Ie you lose true access height with them installed, but if you switch with factory rods out it goes back to normal.

 

Rods increase ride height, they don't change geometry. So they have nothing to do with tire fitment.

 

Hello, new LR3 owner here. Thats a nice looking setup you have there, and helpful info with the pics. I'm planning on getting some new wheels and tires soon and was thinking about some Mickey Thompson Baja Boss in 275/70/18 (33.2") My LR3 has the Atlantic British +2" HD springs on it. I suspect there would be some rubbing here. Do you think some strut spacers would be enough to stop that, or just recommend going with 275/65? Also, any thoughts/concerns on strut spacers are welcome as I am new to the 4x4 world.

These would probably be going on 18x8 +44 wheels if that matters

 

Not sure how they will fit with taller struts since I dont have them and the concern for rubbing was when on the stops to simulate a full tuck. I do plan to put spacers on mine though at some point. But the 2 inch struts should help limit upward travel and rubbing in the wells, assuming the struts so in fact limit upward travel and are not just two inch taller. So I would think you would have minimal rubbing issues in back If you do a heat can help. Worst case you will have to move rear coolant lines IF you have rear HVAC. If not, no worries. The fronts may have rubbing issues in full turns which again a little heat gun action can take care of. Spacers are generally a bad idea. They can often increase rub and even cause issues with wheel tuck by putting the wheel too far outward. So as it goes up instead of tucking into the well it ends up hitting the fender flare.