Random notes from me:

2006 4.4 V8 - At 219k miles, most every hose was original. The only exception being the one that attached behind the cooling pump and makes its way up and over to the top of the t-stat housing. I had done this out of precaution. when doing the coolant crossover assembly/t-stat assembly. Not hard to do with the "string" method. All the other hoses are much, much easier to do of course. Removing the fan is a must. I also did my radiator, new Nissens since I had a small leak at the upper input.

By now, even with the correct coolant, the plastics are very brittle and there are indeed a few plastic fittings in the cooling system. Case in point, the upper radiator hose. This hose has a t-fitting that goes to the heater cores. Upon removing that feed, mine crumbled. Had I been doing other work that was not involving replacement, I would have been screwed. I cover that below.




As you can see above, there really is not a crazy number of hoses that you need to replace when doing the engine only, so I am excluding the hoses that run to the heater cores which are at the upper left. So for complete engine related cooling hoses, you need:

PCH500941 - Upper radiator hose - I went with Eurospare, do not recommend Gates - Eurospare EU-PCH500941 $25.
PCH500962 - Lower radiator hose - This also connected to the oil filter housing cooler - I went with Rein, a brand I have used a lot and trust. CHR0468 $56.
PCH500153 - Radiator to expansion tank and EGR - This is the smaller coolant hose that goes across the top of the radiator to the expansion tank, I went with Rein CHE0513 $18.
LR027661 - The one that required removal of the t-stat housing and has the infamous plastic T fitting at engine top center that breaks. Went with Rein CHE0570 $36.00.
PCH500955 - This is specific to the heater cores and goes across the front of the engine below the t-stat housing. It is actually held on by one bolt and has a section of mental pipe. OEM is your only choice, $116.
LR006159 - This is a very short and small hose that connects to the throttle body on the lower back side and connects direction to a small port on the thermostat housing. OEM seems to be the easiest to find at $35 - which is insane for a tiny hose....
LR006161 - Another small hose that connects to the throttle body but higher up than the other on the backside, other end connects to EGR. Atlantic British had this one for $15, OEM.

So all in you are about $300, less shipping and less any heater core hoses from the side of the engine back.

I plan to do the heater core hoses soon too as they are soft like all the other old ones I removed. Both parts listed below are just the hoses that run from the front of the engine to the firewall in back.

PCH501094/PCH501093 - I am not sure why there are two part numbers, could be an update? 94 seems to come up with results more than 93 anyway. This hose is needed if you have third row HVAC and includes T fittings.
PCH501083/PCH501084 - Part numbers for those that do not have rear HVAC systems.
Either set runs about $130 if you get OEM.

For those with rear HVAC, the coolant hoses that shoot downwards from the t-fitting along the wheel well - those apparently are no longer available from anyone, OEM or otherwise. JHB500250 and JHB500270. They may be easy enough to DIY. From there you will find custom metal pipes with smaller sections of rubber coolant hose to join them. You can probably just buy quality coolant hose to do those junctions. There are four hose connection total. One about midship and one that seems to be above the rear diff. If you want OEM hoses, get four of part JHB500290 @ about $20 each. At the rear heater core appears to be two more hoses in an L shape, JHB500280 and JHB500260 at about $20 each.
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Upper radiator hose:


As long as we are talking about the upper.... My new replacement was Gates, a reputable brand. But I did not like the hose, it seemed to have an odd kink in in. I even removed some hoses to shorten and stretch it a bit. It was just not something I liked about it and ordered a Eurospare part to replace it because I could get it quickly and it had a MUCH more OEM look to it, including the texture of the hose. Would not be surprised if it is a repackage. Unlike the gates, the Eurospare came with all new clamps.

Original OEM hose installed:


Gate on left, Eurospare on right:

 

Thanks for the documentation!
This is on my list for my 200k service - just 8k more miles to go!

I've already replaced my t-stat/housing, radiator, coolant bottle, and heater core.

 

I have a 2006 LR3, like you, and the parts counter just told me LR006159 is for later VIN's from Chassis/VIN 7A426154 and part # 4726525 is to Chassis/VIN 7A426153 which matches my 2006. Weird. AB's website or elsewhere doesn't make this distinction, but the LR parts catalogue apparently does.

 

No clue on that. Get what ever one is VIN appropriate. But I am not aware of any physical change that would warrant a different hose.

 

Another tip. If you are doing the rear heater hoses, careful if you use the original clamps. You want to be certain that the OD of the replacement hose is the same as OEM. The clamps are stamped 25, which I assume is 25mm. I bought some Sioux Chief hose and it had a thinner wall so the clamps did not put on enough pressure to keep a good seal and I had leaks. I had only done the 90 degree hoses from the rear heater core. You can get OEM hoses for about $80 USD but I went with some nice generic 90 degree hoses from Amazon. $24 for a pair and they were much thicker.