I did flow a bit of solder on the switch pad and also reflowed the pins on the connector, and it's all working good now.
The worst part was getting the new Harbor Freight soldering iron I bought to tin properly. I was wondering if someone had slipped in some unfluxed solder. Anyways, for those who want or need to try it, it's actually easy to get that switch pack open and apart, and saved me $100 or so for not having to go find one on ebay or such.

 

and now the stupid rear end won't go back down, after working fine last night. Front drops right down. Deflating the system doesn't help, checking the corners either. Since the back is up and the front is on the stops the rover is in fault mode and won't raise the front to match. It's looking very 60's hot rod right now P

 

Codes? The rear valve block, due to its location, LOVES to collect crap in the connector - front can too tho - give the rear valve block connector cable a tug and see if it was seated all the way on.

 

did a couple of deflates and enables and got it on an even keel. I will give that connector a reconnect, in mt real life I work on copiers/printers and that is a fix I try fairly often.