In my many searches on routing wires from the engine bay into the the cabin, I never ran across this one. If its been mentioned, I certainly did not see it as most just mention the one hard to see plug above the main harness. Well I used that one and need to run a large 0awg power feed. So I cut away a larger area of insulation when I found another! I dont know if I can make it work with etc brake booster installed so I will probably still drill a hole. But here ya go, hole number 2 is lower, slightly morein board than the other and actually on metal that gives it a downward angle. I think the idea was that if it was used the angle helps prevent butting up against the backside of the booster. Plugged like the other and appears the same sized opening.


Green arrow - the hole normally mentioned.
Red arrow - the one I have not seen mentioned.

 

Nice! Never checked for that.

I need to run some 2/0, but don't think either hole can help with that!

 

I dont think that will be a problem. Its hard to see in that pic but the upper hole I had to slightly enlarge. Luckily, unlike much of the firewall, that is a single sheet of metal so it was not much work to Dremel it out larger to install that cable gland. But the glad was oversized and looking back I may have had an exact fit without enlarging by using a smaller gland. For my 12-wire switch harness (that grey cable) and for my 0awg primary, this is the gland I used. Your 2/0 is only one millimeter more in diameter and this gland would work fine.

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?...C3%2F4BK080-ND

 

Thanks, also good catch, I typed it in Backwards! need to find a proper grommet or gland to protect the cable.

Also my problem is I want to run negative and positive cables, so 2/0 X 2,

Instructions for my inverter say negative direct to battery.

 

Hmmm... I was going to do the same originally and bought two long lengths of 4awg. One for my hot water system and one for on board compressor and an inverter (mounted in the third row passenger side bulkhead) - those last two switched so only one could operate at a time. Instead I am now going to run a 0awg past the driver seat then over and under the passenger seat. There I will make a junction box with backup fuses and two 4awg cables, one going to the bulkhead and the other on a connector for the hot water system. So now that makes me wonder if my inverter (not purchased yet) should be installed the same way. I was planning to use the body as the ground. I wonder the reasoning behind not using the body. Will have to look into that.

 

Not sure. I have a 1000 watt inverter and to run all the way in the back I needed 2/0.

Was thinking of going through fender, run along body, then back up through taillight area.

Xantrax prowatt SW1000

 

 

I recently installed some extra bright secondary backup lights. My plan was to run the wires up to a central point inside under the center/top tailgate plastic because they are also meant to work with a strobe system. Rover seems to have triple walled the d pillar area. Exterior, such as around the tail light. Then one sheet between there and the interior metal, such as where the rear speaker/airbag plastic mounts. I could not find a single existing through point. So if that is your plan, you may want to take a close look. I think the only practical area may be along the AC line route and then up/into the cabin. If you do not have rear AC then this may actually be an excellent option and make install pretty easy. I myself am just paranoid about running any cables on the underside.

 

I hear you, just doesn't seem feasible to run 2/0 under the sill plates inside as well.

 

I will have to look under the plates again, running one large cable was no issue. Indeed, two large cables my be a no-go. I did lots of reading and the consensus is that for lower wattage inverters the chases is generally fine. Anything over 500 watt, a dedicated lead for the ground is best. This is only because the chases with its various welds and paint coats may not be sufficient. That is, its is not an issue to use the chassis, but unless you can verify the chassis itself is a sold ground with little resistance you should not use it.

Going back to being paranoid about undercarriage cables, I would have no issues running a large ground under there. In the event of damage it would not matter if it was exposed to the metalworks. So I was thinking maybe you could run your positive inside where its well protected and run your negative outside. Just a though.