Hey guys,

I've been a regular on ExPo for 6-7 months now, but just recently have been checking on this forum. Anyways, I just got to checking this front diff breather mod today and unfortunately, my 06 still has the original piece. Are there warning signs, or possible symptoms I would be seeing if this original part was doing damage due to not being replaced yet?

Thought I read that not replacing the part can lead to some hefty repairs, but what would I be looking for to know if the damage was already done?

Thanks gents!

 

Not replacing the breather cap won't necessarily cause a leaking front diff, but that is indeed the worst case scenario. If the pressure isn't properly vented then the front diff can blow a seal and will start leaking. Eventually it will fail.

Is your car "groaning" at freeway speed, getting louder when you push the throttle? If not you may be okay. If so, your front diff could be T.U.

Here is what I'd suggest: get your front diff fluid changed....and while you're doing that, have the TSB performed. Should cost you about $100 total at your dealership. If they want more than that, get the part per the TSB and install that yourself while taking the Rover to an indy shop for the diff fluid change.

Both are easy...if you have the means to gain access to the diff and dispose of the fluid, you can do it yourself. I don't, so I pay someone.

 

I am pretty much of the same thinking re the differential oil change. Paying a dealer or independent to do it has a lot of merit. New oil every so often I like to think means you keep both factory differentials. Ask the oil change person to look at the oil coming out of each as to colour and smell etc; it can give you an idea of the condition of each differential. So far, the story I get for the oil coming out of each is that it seems OK.

As to the vent change, it really is easy and better yet, when you cut the old one off, you can then try blowing thru it and the new one and decide for yourself if you wasted your money.

I pretty much guarantee you will conclude that the vent change is money and effort well spent.

 

Great points, bbyer. The rear needs oil changed more regularly than scheduled originally as well. So...my diffs needed to be replaced. I had been changing oil more regularly since then. My rear when out AGAIN, presumably for a different reason (clutch packs associated with the locking mechanism). I changed the rear again AND the locking actuator (and the rear drive shaft since it was old and had to be removed anyway). Since then, I started changing the diff oil every 1500 miles until the fluid came back so clean and clear you'd want to put it back in. I also checked the magnetic plug, until it had ZERO metal shavings. I did this with the front too once that $hit happened in the rear. Finally both got clean bills of health and now I'll go to a 15k miles change interval.

Oh...as for inspecting the oil. I have a superb relationship with my Dealer Service Dept and the only Tech I trust to do this stuff. I was standing right under the LR3 with him as he changed the oil and was able to personally see it.

 

From personal experience, replacing a failed diff has nothing to do with fluid change intervals - at least not directly. The TSB basically tells the entire story - there was an incorrect sealant/paint used on the diff casings that breaks down, contaminates the oil, and destroys the bearings.

Once the damage is done, no amount of fluid changes will fit the problem.

Conversely, if you've replaced your diff with a corrected unit or one off an 07+, you aren't at risk of fluid contamination, and the crazy 75k fluid change intervals or whatever they are will probably work out just fine. Would I do mine every 30 or so instead? Sure, but failure of the unit won't happen unless something else is going on.

The locking units were exempt from the TSB so you've gotta have something else going on. They used the correct fluid and friction modifiers? Those things are supposed to be very very reliable.

As far as the OP (or at least recent OP lol) the breather cap isn't the type of mod you do to fix any symptom - by then it's too late. Upgrading your breater, or replacing one on high mileage vehicle is simply preventative maintenance. It just allows the unit to function correctly. I did mine last year - it's a few bucks and I'll never need to worry about it or think about the thing ever again. The more parts in my car that I can say something like that about, the better off I am!!

I've had an 06 RRS and LR3 and ALL diffs had a 100% failure rate by the time I purchased the vehicles lol. Two covered under extended warranty, one by previous owner, and the front on my LR3 is going bye-bye (changed all my fluids to RP but the burned sludge oil that came out of the front was kinda scary!) Hopefully I get another 10-15k out of it while I piece together my repair parts. No way I'm trashing that entire thing because of a couple cheap bearings.

 

Not that I'm saying there is any reason to buy it, but I found it interesting that ARB makes a differential breather now.

 

Houm,

Thanks for the description of "groaning". I haven't noticed that particular sound, which I hope means the front diff is good. Ever since I bought the vehicle back in Sept 2015, its only been to a local indy Rover shop. While I really appreciated some of their help early on, my last couple of interactions haven't been the best. With that said, they drained and filled both diffs, TC and Trans 6,400 miles ago. Do you think I should still have a dealer drain + fill, and perform the TSB, or just order the part and replace it myself?

Its also time for the 120k service, and Ive been leaning towards having a dealership do this vs the Indy place I mentioned. Maybe this is a good chance to start building a relationship with those guys.

Bbyer,

Thanks for your input. I was actually looking over the thread/doc/pdf you created sometime ago, regarding this breather mod. Very informative and helpful, so thanks for that. Seemed pretty straightforward. To be fair, Ive never done much DIY on any other vehicles, but Ive also never owned anything like an LR3 before. Im finding that the majority of this stuff really isn't that challenging, given the proper tool and a little bit of reading. The question now isn't IF ill replace the part, just when. $25-30 is a no-brainer at this point. I hope to get up to a LR Dealer(3 in ATL) in the next day or two and start building a relationship there. Thank you both for taking the time to answer this. Your knowledge and willingness to help is appreciated!

 

Estor,

That seems so crazy about the sealant/paint breaking down and ruining the bearings. WTF?

100% failure? yeesh!

Oh yeah, I wasn't hoping that changing the breather would fix symptoms. More curious what those symptoms might be, in case I was already experiencing it and didn't know it. I'm with you on wanting to eliminate the liabilities as much as I can.

Thanks for your insights!

 

Yup, 4 for 4 diffs! 05-06 only AFAIK.

Sorry I went off on a tangent about the failed diffs BUT if yours is okay internally, a clogged breather will cause seepage of fluid past the bearings/seals but I actually don't think it's permanent if you catch it and install a new one.

I think they COULD cause fluid contamination with water or at least condensation / water vapor, so if you've got leaking issues and replace the breather you'd want to replace fluid as well. I think the front is like 1qt or less (don't quote me on that, but it's a very small amount).

Do it during your next oil change when the skid plate is off and it's literally only a couple minutes extra time and $20 in fluids for RP synthetic.

I think I read that it was mostly a problem on severe duty cars with a ton of dirt and dust clogging everything.

The difference in the parts is substantial though, the surface area of the new vent is probably 10x larger. Clearly they missed something the first time around lol.

 

The rears make a distinct and LOUD harmonic groaning noise, at least very late in the failure mode. It also tends to resonate within the car. You may get used to it over time, but turn off HVAC and radio for a day or two and you'll be ripping your hair out.

The fronts are more subtle and mine (both an 06 RRS and 06 LR3) were/are more noticeable as a driveline vibration (very fine, high frequency) and slight rumble/bearing noise, especially during part-throttle accel, mine went away when off-throttle. The NVH in the car is increased at all times however, but it's just more obvious at slower speeds during part-throttle.