LR3 Immobilization….
Hey everybody! I’ve been reading so many comments on this forum page I figured I’d just make my own.
I just picked up a 2007 LR3 4.4 the other day! Drive it, liked it, bought it! Everything was great until about 100 miles into my trip home with it. Hazards turned on, AC turned off, and radio shut off after saying “system shutting down”. Oddly enough, everything pops back on to normal intermittently and then will shut off again. It’s a cycle. It has absolutely no issue driving or loss of engine power. I didn’t turn off my car until I got home just in case it was a significant problem.
When I got home and tried to turn off and back on again, it wouldn’t start. Disappointed I waited until the next day to do a hard reset with the battery cables and that fixes nothing. The car will randomly start when I try. When I bought it, I was told that it would start every time but sometimes I’d have to wait 30-45 seconds for the security feature to recognize the key. But was never told of the consistent shutdown of everything on the interior while I was driving.
This is my daily driver now so I’d like to get this figured out. I’m about 2 hours from a Land River dealer. Obviously I’d like to get it done as cheap as possible. From others with the same issue, the solution comes down to the cluster reprogramming, a key problem, or maybe something with the ECU or immobilization feature.
Any advice or self diagnosis would be incredible! I’m excited about being in the Rover world but just off to a rough start!
I just picked up a 2007 LR3 4.4 the other day! Drive it, liked it, bought it! Everything was great until about 100 miles into my trip home with it. Hazards turned on, AC turned off, and radio shut off after saying “system shutting down”. Oddly enough, everything pops back on to normal intermittently and then will shut off again. It’s a cycle. It has absolutely no issue driving or loss of engine power. I didn’t turn off my car until I got home just in case it was a significant problem.
When I got home and tried to turn off and back on again, it wouldn’t start. Disappointed I waited until the next day to do a hard reset with the battery cables and that fixes nothing. The car will randomly start when I try. When I bought it, I was told that it would start every time but sometimes I’d have to wait 30-45 seconds for the security feature to recognize the key. But was never told of the consistent shutdown of everything on the interior while I was driving.
This is my daily driver now so I’d like to get this figured out. I’m about 2 hours from a Land River dealer. Obviously I’d like to get it done as cheap as possible. From others with the same issue, the solution comes down to the cluster reprogramming, a key problem, or maybe something with the ECU or immobilization feature.
Any advice or self diagnosis would be incredible! I’m excited about being in the Rover world but just off to a rough start!
Need operating voltage readings. You may have multiple issues. One being a bad starter solenoid, which can create random start issues. Or a week battery that is starting right away does not have enough juice after initial key turn, but if left can rebound enough to start. And if the alternator is weak, you may have a weak battery. So get voltage at battery before starting, at startup and after the idle calms down. Even voltage as you are driving if you can.
Hazards turning on can be associated with a bad instrument cluster. Pretty common failure.
You need to buy a GAP tool, as mentioned, to
A: properly diagnose
B: if it’s a cluster code a new one.
But if I had to, I would guess cluster.
You need to buy a GAP tool, as mentioned, to
A: properly diagnose
B: if it’s a cluster code a new one.
But if I had to, I would guess cluster.
Need operating voltage readings. You may have multiple issues. One being a bad starter solenoid, which can create random start issues. Or a week battery that is starting right away does not have enough juice after initial key turn, but if left can rebound enough to start. And if the alternator is weak, you may have a weak battery. So get voltage at battery before starting, at startup and after the idle calms down. Even voltage as you are driving if you can.
I keep hearing about a Gap tool. Could it fix or decode the one that I currently have? I’ve found a guy that I can ship my cluster to and have him repair it. I’d hate to buy a $600 Gap tool and still have a faulty cluster
A GAP tool will not fix your cluster. It will allow you diagnose a bad cluster and to code in a used one.
Unless you are willing to have a knowledgeable mechanic fix your vehicle, this post is the first of many. You will not be able to diagnose your vehicle without a GAP tool.
If you want to guess at repairing your vehicle by swapping in parts based on a bunch of people on the forum, that will cost more money than the GAP tool, not to mention the down time of your daily driver.
Unless you are willing to have a knowledgeable mechanic fix your vehicle, this post is the first of many. You will not be able to diagnose your vehicle without a GAP tool.
If you want to guess at repairing your vehicle by swapping in parts based on a bunch of people on the forum, that will cost more money than the GAP tool, not to mention the down time of your daily driver.
New battery last year not many miles on it driving all different lights come on & messages limited gears, brake, park, battery, etc it died on the highway wouldnt start, jump started it bam, then dies all my lights were flashing hazard, headlights. So flat bed home because stuck in park learned how to neutral override
next day started up drove fine for 2 days here we go again.
Could it be a bad connection or would i need a new alternator? Battery terminals clean as a whisle. Just trying to get an idea before i tear it apart hoping i go back n start it up i can get it home. Dont need another tow bill
next day started up drove fine for 2 days here we go again.
Could it be a bad connection or would i need a new alternator? Battery terminals clean as a whisle. Just trying to get an idea before i tear it apart hoping i go back n start it up i can get it home. Dont need another tow bill
Last edited by Lysiamm11; Sep 27, 2023 at 09:41 AM. Reason: Multiple lights on my dash randomly
If you suspect battery, check its voltage and if necessary have it tested. D3/D4 are quite intolerant to dodgy electrics
if you suspect alternator, your battery would eventually empty out
It could also be loose/bad ground
It could be also a faulty instrument cluster
It could be water or water damage in the wrong place
Plenty of possibilities
Most of us aren’t telepaths with the vehicles so at best we can give you pointers. We don’t know exactly, usually, nor do we know next week’s powerball numbers 😎
Pulling codes isn’t perfect either but they tend to nudge the triage in some direction.
Hope this helps.
if you suspect alternator, your battery would eventually empty out
It could also be loose/bad ground
It could be also a faulty instrument cluster
It could be water or water damage in the wrong place
Plenty of possibilities
Most of us aren’t telepaths with the vehicles so at best we can give you pointers. We don’t know exactly, usually, nor do we know next week’s powerball numbers 😎
Pulling codes isn’t perfect either but they tend to nudge the triage in some direction.
Hope this helps.
Well I found an opportunity to send off my cluster to a fella who could repair my cluster. His description online actually listed every single symptom I was having so I took a chance and shipped it off. Express shipping there and back and now I have a perfectly operating LR3. Runs like a top! No warning lights. No faults. I spent $300 and couldn’t be happier. Happy trails boys! Thank you all for your help!


