Lr3 instrument cluster issues
#21
#22
Thanks
Here is the update on mine;
Replace the battery with new
Change all the break lamps
Change the break light switch
Spend two days checking all the wires( passenger side , driver side , speed sensors , ect )
Haven't find any thing that look suspicious
It has got to. Worse now. It use to start once in may be twenty tries. Now it does not start at all.
I guess I have to take it back to the dealer.
Anybody can think of any thing else to check.
Appreciate ever bodies input
Here is the update on mine;
Replace the battery with new
Change all the break lamps
Change the break light switch
Spend two days checking all the wires( passenger side , driver side , speed sensors , ect )
Haven't find any thing that look suspicious
It has got to. Worse now. It use to start once in may be twenty tries. Now it does not start at all.
I guess I have to take it back to the dealer.
Anybody can think of any thing else to check.
Appreciate ever bodies input
#24
I'd buy this one and put it on myself... Land Rover Speedometer Instrument Cluster LR3 06 09 YAC500057PVJ | eBay
#25
I'd buy this one and put it on myself... Land Rover Speedometer Instrument Cluster LR3 06 09 YAC500057PVJ | eBay
Unfortunately I have no update on my end as the customer has not gotten back to me to sync his new cluster.
#26
Might be just the single plug is loose!
The link below is how to replace the speaker within the cluster, but the last picture in the link shows where the main cable plugs into the rear of the cluster.
Often the problems you speak of are just that the plug for some reason is loose in the socket. All you do is disconnect and reconnect. I think maybe the cable feed is a bit short and over time, temperature change pulls the plug from the socket, or at least loosens it so that some of the contacts do not connect any longer.
If that does not resolve the problem, unwrap the first three inches of electrical tape that covers the main cable and inspect the conductors. In some cases, for some reason, (probably too short a cable), the electrical insulation around the individual conductors has deteriorated due to stretching, and hence copper is touching copper.
You will find some of those twisted pair conductors, (yellow insulation), (they are Can-buss wires), and most likely the ones causing all the lights to flicker on and off etc as they tie to the computers.
The fix is just to repair the insulation breaks with 3M black electrical tape, probably the +33 type.
The reason you do not want to actually replace your instrument cluster with either a new or used is that the backup memory chip for the engine/car computer is located on the instrument cluster PCB. Junkyard clusters cannot easily be overwritten, hence they are for the most part, useless.
This chip is encoded with the vehicle VIN and hence with a new cluster, via the T4 or a BlackBox device, one has to transfer the data from the main memory chip located on the back of the passenger side fuse panel and get that data onto the new chip within the new instrument cluster. Once the data is there, the new instrument cluster is now "old".
About all that goes wrong with the instrument cluster is the speaker quits, hence the posts re speaker replacement as one has no signal light noise maker etc.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...D3_Speaker.pdf
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - No clicking!
Often the problems you speak of are just that the plug for some reason is loose in the socket. All you do is disconnect and reconnect. I think maybe the cable feed is a bit short and over time, temperature change pulls the plug from the socket, or at least loosens it so that some of the contacts do not connect any longer.
If that does not resolve the problem, unwrap the first three inches of electrical tape that covers the main cable and inspect the conductors. In some cases, for some reason, (probably too short a cable), the electrical insulation around the individual conductors has deteriorated due to stretching, and hence copper is touching copper.
You will find some of those twisted pair conductors, (yellow insulation), (they are Can-buss wires), and most likely the ones causing all the lights to flicker on and off etc as they tie to the computers.
The fix is just to repair the insulation breaks with 3M black electrical tape, probably the +33 type.
The reason you do not want to actually replace your instrument cluster with either a new or used is that the backup memory chip for the engine/car computer is located on the instrument cluster PCB. Junkyard clusters cannot easily be overwritten, hence they are for the most part, useless.
This chip is encoded with the vehicle VIN and hence with a new cluster, via the T4 or a BlackBox device, one has to transfer the data from the main memory chip located on the back of the passenger side fuse panel and get that data onto the new chip within the new instrument cluster. Once the data is there, the new instrument cluster is now "old".
About all that goes wrong with the instrument cluster is the speaker quits, hence the posts re speaker replacement as one has no signal light noise maker etc.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...D3_Speaker.pdf
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - No clicking!
#27
Have you sovled this ?
Hi am having the same issue with my range rover sport 2007 3.6 v8 diesel
have had a new battery, cleaned the park brake switch and fitted a new transmission control module order a new instrumenal panel however it' not married up ...... the vehicle use to start 3 to 4 times a day until I took it in the garage and it just got worst the garage has returned my truck as they can' solve the issue
I have every fault on the dash hazard lights flashing and vehicle won' start
any one had a solution I've looked every where and can' find anything
have had a new battery, cleaned the park brake switch and fitted a new transmission control module order a new instrumenal panel however it' not married up ...... the vehicle use to start 3 to 4 times a day until I took it in the garage and it just got worst the garage has returned my truck as they can' solve the issue
I have every fault on the dash hazard lights flashing and vehicle won' start
any one had a solution I've looked every where and can' find anything
#29
#30
Water Ingress
You have to stop the water coming in first. Check your sunroof drains, Pollen Filter box and windshield cowling...and your A-Pillar. Stop the water! Then dry your carpets....and while you have the carpets pulled up look for corrosion in the wiring and severed connections. There is tons of info on this on this board, just do a keyword search.
The following users liked this post:
ancientau (07-08-2022)