LR3 to LR4 Bluetooth Module Upgrade
#11
Good news. I just needed to be more patient. I was able to get my phone paired. I read in the service manual that the module will try to connect to up to 5 previous connected devices starting with the most recently connected device and that it make take 30 seconds to get Land Rover to pop up. That was my issue I just needed to wait about 20-30 seconds.
For those who may come across this thread and need instructions on removing the rear quarter panel. Here are the instructions from the service manual:
Interior Trim and Ornamentation - Rear Quarter Trim Panel
Removal
1. Fold down the rear seat backrest.
2. Release the door aperture weatherstrip.
3. Release the safety belt anchor.
Remove and discard the bolt.
4. Release the tailgate aperture seal.
5. Remove the support spigot from the tailgate.
Release the clip.
6. Remove the rear quarter trim panel.
Remove the Torx screw.
Lift the storage box lid and using a firm grip, release
the window clips by pulling the trim inboard.
Release the remaining 6 plastic clips using a suitable
tool.
Disconnect the 2 electrical connectors.
7. NOTE: Do not disassemble further if the component is
removed for access only.
Remove the stowage tray.
Release the cover.
8. Remove the audio control switch.
Release the 2 clips.
9. Remove the accessory socket.
Installation
1. Install the accessory socket.
2. Install the audio control switch.
Secure the clips.
3. Install the stowage tray.
Install the cover.
4. Install the rear quarter trim panel.
Install the clips.
Tighten the Torx screw to 8 Nm (6 lb.ft).
Connect the electrical connector.
5. Install the support spigot to the tailgate.
Install the clip.
6. Install the tailgate aperture seal.
7. Install the safety belt anchor.
Tighten the Torx bolt to 40 Nm (30 lb.ft).
8. Install the door aperture weatherstrip.
9. Return the seat backrest to the upright position.
For those who may come across this thread and need instructions on removing the rear quarter panel. Here are the instructions from the service manual:
Interior Trim and Ornamentation - Rear Quarter Trim Panel
Removal
1. Fold down the rear seat backrest.
2. Release the door aperture weatherstrip.
3. Release the safety belt anchor.
Remove and discard the bolt.
4. Release the tailgate aperture seal.
5. Remove the support spigot from the tailgate.
Release the clip.
6. Remove the rear quarter trim panel.
Remove the Torx screw.
Lift the storage box lid and using a firm grip, release
the window clips by pulling the trim inboard.
Release the remaining 6 plastic clips using a suitable
tool.
Disconnect the 2 electrical connectors.
7. NOTE: Do not disassemble further if the component is
removed for access only.
Remove the stowage tray.
Release the cover.
8. Remove the audio control switch.
Release the 2 clips.
9. Remove the accessory socket.
Installation
1. Install the accessory socket.
2. Install the audio control switch.
Secure the clips.
3. Install the stowage tray.
Install the cover.
4. Install the rear quarter trim panel.
Install the clips.
Tighten the Torx screw to 8 Nm (6 lb.ft).
Connect the electrical connector.
5. Install the support spigot to the tailgate.
Install the clip.
6. Install the tailgate aperture seal.
7. Install the safety belt anchor.
Tighten the Torx bolt to 40 Nm (30 lb.ft).
8. Install the door aperture weatherstrip.
9. Return the seat backrest to the upright position.
The following users liked this post:
kndrewa (09-15-2022)
#12
Thank you for posting those instructions, I had an LR4 that I COULD NOT for the life of me figure out how to remove this panel. Specifically made an account for this there was no where else online that showed this that I could find.
That one hidden screw behind the little panel cover was preventing me from progressing above from where the seatbelt anchor is that needed a Torx 50.
Bluetooth module I’m pretty sure in my LR4 is fried. Resetting the fuses, unplugging the battery, unplugging and plugging in the fiber cable to the bluetooth module — nothing fixed it. Still won’t show up for me
That one hidden screw behind the little panel cover was preventing me from progressing above from where the seatbelt anchor is that needed a Torx 50.
Bluetooth module I’m pretty sure in my LR4 is fried. Resetting the fuses, unplugging the battery, unplugging and plugging in the fiber cable to the bluetooth module — nothing fixed it. Still won’t show up for me
#13
Could be fried OR it could have somehow been lost in the vehicle configuration file. Its on the MOST network, so if its TRULY fried it would bring down other systems. But I have heard the the radios do go dead. The other thing I heard is they can reach a limit on devices paid to it and them will no pair to any new ones. Never looked into that though.
#14
Could be fried OR it could have somehow been lost in the vehicle configuration file. Its on the MOST network, so if its TRULY fried it would bring down other systems. But I have heard the the radios do go dead. The other thing I heard is they can reach a limit on devices paid to it and them will no pair to any new ones. Never looked into that though.
It probably is full of devices most likely, which is technically what unplugging of the device is supposed to reset from what I've read.
#15
#16
I did this swap yesterday using this post as a guide. Thanks Dakota as always for the quality writeup.
Couple of notes: I got a connector off eBay per the part number above. Came from an Audi A8 instrument cluster harness. I don't think the terminals are an exact match between the two, but I was able to free up pins 16 and 33 from the LR3 connector and insert them in the A8 connector. It was a little tight and I doubt they'll release easily but shouldn't ever need to; no cutting or splicing involved. Also, I decided to use the constant +12v like the D4 uses, figure this might make things work better, let it decide when to power down so phone calls don't potentially drop when you shut the engine off. I did confirm it powers up and paired my phone but otherwise haven't tested it much.
Couple of notes: I got a connector off eBay per the part number above. Came from an Audi A8 instrument cluster harness. I don't think the terminals are an exact match between the two, but I was able to free up pins 16 and 33 from the LR3 connector and insert them in the A8 connector. It was a little tight and I doubt they'll release easily but shouldn't ever need to; no cutting or splicing involved. Also, I decided to use the constant +12v like the D4 uses, figure this might make things work better, let it decide when to power down so phone calls don't potentially drop when you shut the engine off. I did confirm it powers up and paired my phone but otherwise haven't tested it much.
Last edited by jagmandan; 03-29-2021 at 01:13 PM. Reason: grammar
#17
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