lr3 poly a arm bushings how to
In the end this took like a day and a half for us, I am sure it can be done in a day once you know the tricks lol
Now I did use my scanner to put the suspension in service mode, and I am waiting on ball joints but the rear end is jacked to the sky right now, I am figuring when I am done I will probly use the scanner to deflate the suspension and put her back in normal mode, or it may be a non issue when I start the rover time will tell
I am sure others will have valuable input so feel free, I was not trying to rehash a lot of info that I am sure is out there just give some guidance
Long wrenches helps a lot, long breaker bar
Off the top of my head you need 8,9,10, 18,19,21,22,24 mm wrenches
10mm socket, 18,19,22,22,24,32mm deep sockets
Lead or brass hammer, nice dead blow to help install some bushings
Pry bar, an alignment pin with curved end
Good size straight slot screwdriver
Torque wrench if you are going that route
Drill and sawzall, or tool in first post, or torch and air hammer with muffler chisel, bucket o waters
A helper, safety gear, good wood blocks or heavy jack stands to set frame on don't trust just the jack its a heavy truck
Marking the eccentric bolts will help keep you close but you will need an alignment so figure a trip to the dealer for that since you need a scanner to put it in tight tolerance mode for the alignment
Now I did use my scanner to put the suspension in service mode, and I am waiting on ball joints but the rear end is jacked to the sky right now, I am figuring when I am done I will probly use the scanner to deflate the suspension and put her back in normal mode, or it may be a non issue when I start the rover time will tell
I am sure others will have valuable input so feel free, I was not trying to rehash a lot of info that I am sure is out there just give some guidance
Long wrenches helps a lot, long breaker bar
Off the top of my head you need 8,9,10, 18,19,21,22,24 mm wrenches
10mm socket, 18,19,22,22,24,32mm deep sockets
Lead or brass hammer, nice dead blow to help install some bushings
Pry bar, an alignment pin with curved end
Good size straight slot screwdriver
Torque wrench if you are going that route
Drill and sawzall, or tool in first post, or torch and air hammer with muffler chisel, bucket o waters
A helper, safety gear, good wood blocks or heavy jack stands to set frame on don't trust just the jack its a heavy truck
Marking the eccentric bolts will help keep you close but you will need an alignment so figure a trip to the dealer for that since you need a scanner to put it in tight tolerance mode for the alignment
Last edited by TOM R; Nov 6, 2015 at 10:38 PM.
Finally got dealer alignment, tech said it felt like it Rhode slightly stiffer than a normal lr3 but we think it rides beautiful so as long as this holds up I think it was well worth the time and money for these bushings,plus wife's happy now lol
Glad to hear you're all sorted. I agree that mine felt a bit firmer with the poly, mostly over sharp impacts like a pot hole, but I noticed it most on washboard type roads. Otherwise it's not a huge change.
I admit, it's a PITA job and it certainly helps to have an extra set of hands. Helps even more to have a lift! On a lift I did it all in a long day. Working on stands in the driveway I'd budget 2 days.
I admit, it's a PITA job and it certainly helps to have an extra set of hands. Helps even more to have a lift! On a lift I did it all in a long day. Working on stands in the driveway I'd budget 2 days.
Actually the more my wife drives it the better the ride has gotten like a break in, I notice it cause its not my dd so I am not in the truck a lot , ride is definitely better over last few days, either way she loves it
I just installed polys on my lower control arms. Problem I'm having is that one of the bushings won't go all the way in flush. I've included a pic. I was wondering if you think it'll be ok to use if its not totally flush. Thanks.


