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lr3 poly a arm bushings how to

Old Nov 6, 2015 | 10:25 PM
  #11  
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In the end this took like a day and a half for us, I am sure it can be done in a day once you know the tricks lol

Now I did use my scanner to put the suspension in service mode, and I am waiting on ball joints but the rear end is jacked to the sky right now, I am figuring when I am done I will probly use the scanner to deflate the suspension and put her back in normal mode, or it may be a non issue when I start the rover time will tell

I am sure others will have valuable input so feel free, I was not trying to rehash a lot of info that I am sure is out there just give some guidance

Long wrenches helps a lot, long breaker bar

Off the top of my head you need 8,9,10, 18,19,21,22,24 mm wrenches
10mm socket, 18,19,22,22,24,32mm deep sockets
Lead or brass hammer, nice dead blow to help install some bushings
Pry bar, an alignment pin with curved end
Good size straight slot screwdriver
Torque wrench if you are going that route

Drill and sawzall, or tool in first post, or torch and air hammer with muffler chisel, bucket o waters

A helper, safety gear, good wood blocks or heavy jack stands to set frame on don't trust just the jack its a heavy truck

Marking the eccentric bolts will help keep you close but you will need an alignment so figure a trip to the dealer for that since you need a scanner to put it in tight tolerance mode for the alignment
 

Last edited by TOM R; Nov 6, 2015 at 10:38 PM.
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Old Nov 8, 2015 | 07:35 PM
  #12  
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Pic of right front lower a arm

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Old Nov 19, 2015 | 07:37 PM
  #13  
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Finally got dealer alignment, tech said it felt like it Rhode slightly stiffer than a normal lr3 but we think it rides beautiful so as long as this holds up I think it was well worth the time and money for these bushings,plus wife's happy now lol
 
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Old Nov 19, 2015 | 07:52 PM
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Glad to hear you're all sorted. I agree that mine felt a bit firmer with the poly, mostly over sharp impacts like a pot hole, but I noticed it most on washboard type roads. Otherwise it's not a huge change.

I admit, it's a PITA job and it certainly helps to have an extra set of hands. Helps even more to have a lift! On a lift I did it all in a long day. Working on stands in the driveway I'd budget 2 days.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2015 | 09:52 AM
  #15  
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Actually the more my wife drives it the better the ride has gotten like a break in, I notice it cause its not my dd so I am not in the truck a lot , ride is definitely better over last few days, either way she loves it
 
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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 04:08 PM
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I just installed polys on my lower control arms. Problem I'm having is that one of the bushings won't go all the way in flush. I've included a pic. I was wondering if you think it'll be ok to use if its not totally flush. Thanks.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 05:49 PM
  #17  
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Looks like you only have maybe a mm from flush - I'm pretty sure you'll be OK with that.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2015 | 09:32 AM
  #18  
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Has to be flush IMO, hit with dead blow hammer, you know the orange plastic type filled with shot, did you lube them?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2015 | 10:01 AM
  #19  
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Yes, tap them in and you'll be fine. I am happy with mine so far. I only did the front lowers, the biggest culprit but plan to do the rest eventually.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2015 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by TOM R
Has to be flush IMO, hit with dead blow hammer, you know the orange plastic type filled with shot, did you lube them?
Nope just banged them in like it said to do on the Atlantic British polybush video.
Should I remove them/lube them and start over? If yes, what lube would I use? Thanks.
 
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