My daughter's LR3 is doing this once or twice per week. The car stalls, sometimes restarts with no issue, and sometimes she has to wait 3-4 minutes before it will start again.

So the mechanic thinks this is a key issue - that the key is sending some sort of signal to the car that it is stolen, etc. and that it is disabling the vehicle.

Well, sounds easy enough, just replace the key, right? No...apparently this is up to a 6 week process that involves ordering the key, having it programmed, etc.

What are the thoughts on all of this? is it plausible? Is there a work around so that my daughter can at least drive the car for 6 weeks while awaiting a new key? i've never heard such nonsense in my life.

 

6 weeks is ridiculous.

Its normally 2-10 days depending on if you pay rush fees.

Im almost 100% sure its not the key. Is your mechanic a LR shop?

My wife, guesses loose battery cable. I guess broken plastic tab on throttle body connector. The locking tab breaks and that connector can become slightly disconnected while driving.

 

I'm guessing fuel pump.

 

And the winner is... I guess we will find out in six weeks.

 

This is a good independent shop. He said that the key is jacked up and sending out an incorrect signal. He also said that it likely wouldn't be a fuel pump or crank sensor because that wouldn't cause the steering wheel to lock.

 

Is there are ton of crap hanging from the key?

 

It isn't the key per se, but supposedly the electronics inside the key.

 

Buy a cheap aftermarket remote on eBay or Amazon.

have your independent code it.

he will need to first code yours(original), then it will ask to insert next. You don’t have to have the blade cut, just stick in ignition enough to hear the chime.

if he successfully codes it, then get the blade cut. Now for $100 ish(depending on his cost to code) you can test his theory.

but I doubt it. I’m sure he is guessing. Also, there would be codes for the security if that was it.

i repair key fobs all the time. Never seen one that had an intermittent Immobilizer chip issue.

 

What codes were retrieved for your rover? I’m with Abran, the key either works or doesnt(coding wise). Steering column won’t lock up in 2nd position. Unless we are relating the “locked steering” as a tight steering wheel due to the stalling. What codes again?

 

Guys, the shop still has the car. I think I will go and get it tomorrow. This is the second shop that has come up with nothing. As much as we love this car, and my daughter loves it, I am seriously considering just trading it in for a Honda or something. I mean a car that dies in the middle of traffic and cannot be fixed is a problem. Mechanics of course can't get it to act up.

So far, these are the theories being floated:

1- Loose battery cable
2 - Broken tab on throttle body connector (is there a diagram somewhere that might show me where this is so I could check this myself?)
3 - Fuel pump
4 - Catalytic converter possibly?
5- Ox sensor?
6- Bad key?
5 - Other?

The only clues I can offer is that when it shuts off, the wheel locks. Sometimes, it will start right back up, sometimes, there is a 3-4-5 minute delay. But it always starts back up.

I guess I'm trying to figure out how much $$$ I might have to toss to get this problem cleared up, and even if I fix/address ALL of the above, does that fix the issue?