I think I'm going to go ahead and order the ABS sensors. My LR3 has roughly 183K miles on it and the ABS sensors are still the original. I think it's time to replace them. Thanks Gordo51

 

Are all the wheels the same size? Are you certain you do not have other bad wheel bearings, including the rear? You can not assume that braking in the front is cause by a front end issue. The truck is a unit as a whole and it will brake the appropriate wheel to maintain control.

 

Dakota - Thanks for the reply. I did replaced the front ABS sensors, but the problem still exists. One thing I did encounter after replacing the driver-side front ABS sensor, is all kind of lights on the dash came on including the ABS light, special systems unavailable, brake light, etc.. I ran it on the GAP diagnostic and it read the transfer case and transmission wasn't doesn't read properly , etc... I reinstalled the original sensor and everything is fine. The only ABS sensor that's replaced is the front passenger side. I did ordered the rear ABS sensors as well - waiting for it to ship. Thus far, the only thing that works is disabling the DCS. I think I will order an OEM front driver-side ABS sensor as well. I will report back once I install the rear sensors and test drive it for a bit.

 

If you were not getting ABS sensor fault codes, I doubt the ABS sensors would be an issue. The ABS is incredibly complex with numerous checksums and such to prevent issues. This is very similar, in a way, to the airbag crash system, which is also heavily monitored. This is because of the nature of these critical systems. Also DSC and ABS are in many ways separate. ABS stands on its own, no way to disable it at all. DSC simply uses several sensors and systems, including the ABS, to function. Like I said, I would verify the tires are all the same size because if they are not you will have this issues for sure. I would also check ALL wheel bearing, even the new one if not Timken/OEM as the aftermarkets are well known to be hit or miss and can fail fast.

 

Sorry Dakota, I forgot to mention that all tires are of the same size. I just had the front driver size wheel bearing replace, I'd ordered a Timken front-passenger side. Maybe I should order the rear ones as well. Thanks for bring that up...that go me thinking about it.

 

I would check them before blindly ordering em. The rear bearings are a bit of a project to replace. They require a press fit.

Also I will bring up, incase no one has, that a bad alignment can cause issues too.

 

Brakes Plus did the alignment after they installed the front wheel bearing, so I'm sure it's not that. However, I've been hearing a slight grinding noise in the rear and didn't snap until you mentioned it. But, I'll check to be on the safe side. They're still the original rear bearings.

 

So you looked at the alignment print out and it was good or did you take their word for it? I ask because the LR3 is not sometime most shops are conformable aligning. There is one thing with vehicle repairs, never ever make assumptions. Like never assume that since a part is new it can not be the problem, etc. New parts fail too. And never get an alignment without a before/after print out. Basically if there is an issue, look at the most recent things done first and go from there.

 

I did looked at the alignment report and it looked good.

 

If you're going down the road of replacing sensors, be sure to keep all your old ones. These don't commonly fail - there's not anything in them that "wears out" - and old oem ones are likely to still be better than new aftermarket ones.

To really diagnose speed sensor issues, set up your GAP tool to display speed sensor live data as you're driving, set it to record and pay attention to what happens when you go around the type of curve that triggers your issue. What you want to look for are anomalies in any of the data.

I wouldn't disregard the alignment as a possible cause yet. Do you know if the shop put the vehicle into tight tolerance mode before doing it? If they didn't then they need to do it again. Also the steering wheel has to be perfectly centered on these when the wheels are pointing straight ahead. I would also re-do the steering angle calibration. It should pretty much always be done after an alignment.