Metallic Pinging
I am getting a pinging/clicking sound, metallic, from the drivers side. It's not constant and can happen at any speed.
I suspected the wheel bearing and/or half shaft but had both check by an independent shop and they said both were ok.
I knew the brakes we just about roached so I had new rotors, pads, etc installed thinking it was a brake issue (warped rotor).
Problem is still occurring. While it was in for brakes had them check the engine light out that came on a few days earlier.
They said 12 codes came up from misfire--several cylinders, to overheat, etc. They asked if it overheated recently, it has not. They then said I should take to the dealer, which I appreciate over them just throwing parts at it.
Asked my wife to listen and she thought it was coming from passenger side about but further towards the rear (ie. about mid point of the driver door).
I now think that the sound may be the engine (i.e. valves, etc) as a result of the misfire issue? Any thoughts?
PS the Rover has 144K on it
Thanks for any suggestions.
I suspected the wheel bearing and/or half shaft but had both check by an independent shop and they said both were ok.
I knew the brakes we just about roached so I had new rotors, pads, etc installed thinking it was a brake issue (warped rotor).
Problem is still occurring. While it was in for brakes had them check the engine light out that came on a few days earlier.
They said 12 codes came up from misfire--several cylinders, to overheat, etc. They asked if it overheated recently, it has not. They then said I should take to the dealer, which I appreciate over them just throwing parts at it.
Asked my wife to listen and she thought it was coming from passenger side about but further towards the rear (ie. about mid point of the driver door).
I now think that the sound may be the engine (i.e. valves, etc) as a result of the misfire issue? Any thoughts?
PS the Rover has 144K on it
Thanks for any suggestions.
Misfire codes on these are not uncommon, but usually not really a misfire, generally stored due to a stumble on startup that happens sometimes, for various reasons.
Where you're describing the noise from, sounds like it could just be metal expanding in the exhaust, but if this is a new sound, then something may be causing the cats to get hotter then they should, generally over-fueling.
Is the temp gauge on the dash warming up like it usually does, or does it seem to take longer to reach dead center, or even not get there at all?
Where you're describing the noise from, sounds like it could just be metal expanding in the exhaust, but if this is a new sound, then something may be causing the cats to get hotter then they should, generally over-fueling.
Is the temp gauge on the dash warming up like it usually does, or does it seem to take longer to reach dead center, or even not get there at all?
So I did a bit of troubleshooting and I think I have 2 unrelated issues.
First, with the engine light. I am getting code p0128, which I think is coolant temp below thermostat regulating temp. Before I ran the scan, I checked and the coolant was low (was also getting a low coolant in the info center). I topped it off and the info center light went off and cam back on several times.
The LR is coming up to temp normally (not any slower or faster than normal) and is hanging out about mid way on the temp gauge. I suspect that the issue was resolved with topping off the coolant. Do you think? Would low coolant trip the code? Or do you think there is also a t-stat issue?
The 2nd issue, the metallic clicking, I am 99% sure is a running gear issue. I suspected the driver side front cat but can only replicate the noise when the LR is driving. If it was the cat is seems to me it would do it idling in the driveway too.
I think I can rule out the driver side half shaft (no clunking when turning stop to stop). I am not getting clunk like you would see if it was a bad u joint. I think that leaves, the front diff, transfer case, tranny and hub.
Even though the independent shop said they checked the hub, I suspect that it may be the issue. Or at least, I am hoping that is what it is.
Is this a major job? Something I can handle myself or are there specialty tools needed?
First, with the engine light. I am getting code p0128, which I think is coolant temp below thermostat regulating temp. Before I ran the scan, I checked and the coolant was low (was also getting a low coolant in the info center). I topped it off and the info center light went off and cam back on several times.
The LR is coming up to temp normally (not any slower or faster than normal) and is hanging out about mid way on the temp gauge. I suspect that the issue was resolved with topping off the coolant. Do you think? Would low coolant trip the code? Or do you think there is also a t-stat issue?
The 2nd issue, the metallic clicking, I am 99% sure is a running gear issue. I suspected the driver side front cat but can only replicate the noise when the LR is driving. If it was the cat is seems to me it would do it idling in the driveway too.
I think I can rule out the driver side half shaft (no clunking when turning stop to stop). I am not getting clunk like you would see if it was a bad u joint. I think that leaves, the front diff, transfer case, tranny and hub.
Even though the independent shop said they checked the hub, I suspect that it may be the issue. Or at least, I am hoping that is what it is.
Is this a major job? Something I can handle myself or are there specialty tools needed?
P0128 is almost always the thermostat, and once you replace it(and find a torn seal) the truck will warm up faster. Low coolant won't cause this, unless low enough to cause an overheat as well. You'll need to replace the expansion tank for the low coolant message staying on with the correct level.
Since it is only when in motion, yeah, probably not the cat. Most likely cause would be the hub, these fail regularly, and can cause all kinds of strange noises.
Any noise is difficult to give advise on, as what you call a 'ping', I might call a clunk. Generally speaking, these diffs will make a whine or groaning noise when failing.
Does the noise change with speed, both in tone and frequency?
Will it go away if shifted to Neutral while in motion?
Since it is only when in motion, yeah, probably not the cat. Most likely cause would be the hub, these fail regularly, and can cause all kinds of strange noises.
Any noise is difficult to give advise on, as what you call a 'ping', I might call a clunk. Generally speaking, these diffs will make a whine or groaning noise when failing.
Does the noise change with speed, both in tone and frequency?
Will it go away if shifted to Neutral while in motion?
For the heck of it, decided to change the transfer case fluid tonight to rule it out.
It was full and had no metal shavings. The fluid didn't smell bad or look too terrible considering it has 145K on it. I think the t/c is fine.
I also checked the wheel bearing for myself. It felt solid no play on the 12 or 6 axis. I think the bearing/hub is ok too.
Also, did a real solid visual of the underside of the L/R. Nothing stood out as abnormal, no leaks at diff, tranny, cv joint, etc.
The only thing I did notice is when I let the LR down from the jack stands (jacked up driver side only) the noise I have been having started immediately--the L/R was at access height.
I wonder if the stress of the wheel hanging from being jack up and then being at access height put extra pressure on whatever is making the noise. I think I am back at my original thought, half shaft/cv joint.
I am going to strap a audio recorder in that area in the am and drive around to try and pint point the location.
It was full and had no metal shavings. The fluid didn't smell bad or look too terrible considering it has 145K on it. I think the t/c is fine.
I also checked the wheel bearing for myself. It felt solid no play on the 12 or 6 axis. I think the bearing/hub is ok too.
Also, did a real solid visual of the underside of the L/R. Nothing stood out as abnormal, no leaks at diff, tranny, cv joint, etc.
The only thing I did notice is when I let the LR down from the jack stands (jacked up driver side only) the noise I have been having started immediately--the L/R was at access height.
I wonder if the stress of the wheel hanging from being jack up and then being at access height put extra pressure on whatever is making the noise. I think I am back at my original thought, half shaft/cv joint.
I am going to strap a audio recorder in that area in the am and drive around to try and pint point the location.
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