Migration from D2 to LR3
#1
Migration from D2 to LR3
Hey all, I promise I tried searching this before posting but I couldn't find much. I've had my D2 for about 3 years now. I've replaced the HGs on it myself and it's generally running well. It is getting up in mileage though, and my wife thinks its not very "dependable" so we are looking at something a little more "reliable". I think at the end of the day I could spend money on a Turner block for the D2 or move into an LR3.
I'm already familiar with the D2 quirks and issues, but I'm not sure how many of them would translate over to the LR3? What are the major things fixed from the D2? What new problems may I need to keep to an eye out for, besides the obvious during a vehicle inspection?
I'm already familiar with the D2 quirks and issues, but I'm not sure how many of them would translate over to the LR3? What are the major things fixed from the D2? What new problems may I need to keep to an eye out for, besides the obvious during a vehicle inspection?
#2
Control arm bushings, water intrusion is common from the A-pillar/sunroof noisy differentials and rust if you look in the north for a truck.
I would also stay away from the V6, the Jag 4.4 V8 has good power acceptable fuel economy and is pretty bulletproof. The thermostat housing and the coolant bleeder T are the big fails under there and both can be done for $150. I prefer genuine for the thermostat and the bleeder t can be built from brass bits at Home Depot.
They really are solid and I have been completely impressed with mine. So much so that I am replacing it with a rust free one.
I would also stay away from the V6, the Jag 4.4 V8 has good power acceptable fuel economy and is pretty bulletproof. The thermostat housing and the coolant bleeder T are the big fails under there and both can be done for $150. I prefer genuine for the thermostat and the bleeder t can be built from brass bits at Home Depot.
They really are solid and I have been completely impressed with mine. So much so that I am replacing it with a rust free one.
#3
Another common LR3 issue is the lower steering shaft binding/feeling notch. Not hard to to replace and only go OEM (about$250??). Basically a u-joint in it goes bad, can really make steering seem off/tight. They are very different than a D2 and in all good ways. Although I love the styling of a D2 much better.
#4
#5
You'll want to make sure the EAS is in good shape...check the function of the EPB, too. Of course look for leaks. I checked out at least a dozen examples before I picked up our '06. Many of them leaked from the engine, tranny or T-Case. A lot of these rigs have had hard lives, but there are certainly gems out there, too.
#6
I do agree that the LR3 is better looking than the D2
Last edited by ArmyRover; 12-02-2019 at 06:33 PM.
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LR Techniker (12-02-2019)
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